Monday, January 31, 2011
1973 Chevrolet NOVA SS For Sale @ karconnectioninc.com in Miami
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M1BTDJykqR4&hl=en
Sunday, January 30, 2011
Blazer Front View
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w7DRV-8WYsE&hl=en
Saturday, January 29, 2011
Make a Halloween Pumpkin Cake
Ingredients
2 pkgs. Cake Mix
2 Cans Prepared White Frosting
Food Coloring (red, yellow, and green)
1 Hostess Ho-Ho or similar cake-roll snack item (optional)
Bundt pan
Cupcake pan
Method:
Fill one of the cupcake wells 2/3 full with cake batter. Pour the rest of the cake batter into the bundt pan.
Bake the bundt cake according to package directions. Keep an eye on the cupcake as it will cook and be done before the cake. Make the second bundt cake (or use 2 bundt pans and bake together to save time). Let the finished cakes cool completely.
Reserve 1/2 cup of the white frosting and color the rest orange. This is done by slowly adding drops of yellow and red food coloring until you have just the right shade of orange. Adding more yellow will lighten the color, while adding red will deepen it.
Place one cake upside down on a platter and frost the top with the orange frosting. Now place the second cake on top of the first, flat side down. Frost both cakes together, using up and down motion to simulate the lines in a pumpkin.
Insert the cupcake upside-down into the hole in the top of the bundt cakes to make the pumpkin's stem. Color the reserved frosting green and frost the cupcake stem.
If desired, make a face on the pumpkin using gumdrops or jelly beans for eyes and nose, black licorice whips for the mouth, candy corn for teeth, etc.
Variation: Frost a Hostess Ho-Ho or other cake roll type dessert to make the stem, instead of the cupcake.
Visit our Halloween Party page for more great Halloween Cake ideas!
Friday, January 28, 2011
Plant Closed LAID OFF GMC FORD grilles bumpers etc.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uiAUpClltk8&hl=en
Thursday, January 27, 2011
Chevy c/k 1500 headlight install vid 4 of 12
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NIIFz8vWfsM&hl=en
Wednesday, January 26, 2011
41 Chevy Radical Hotrod Truck by CHUCKLES GARAGE
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kOnjU3cMerE&hl=en
Tuesday, January 25, 2011
Monday, January 24, 2011
2011 Chevy Silverado Rocky Ridge Conversion Truck
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L8_wzAIpkBg&hl=en
Sunday, January 23, 2011
The History of the Ford Mustang
The Ford Mustang was first introduced in 1964, at the World Exhibition of New York, and Americans immediately fell in love with the car. Everyone flocked to Ford showrooms, scrambling to be the first to own a Mustang. Over 22,000 Mustangs were sold on the first day! Sales reached 418,000 in the first year.
The first Mustang became known as the 1964½ and was available in two models, the coupe and the convertible. Features of both models included a lengthened hood and shortened rear deck, chrome wrap-around bumpers, chrome grill with a running horse, full wheel covers and a sporty interior. The cost for a standard Mustang was around $2,400. The GT and the fastback model were introduced in 1965.
The Shelby GT350 was also introduced in 1965. Its design was a collaboration between Ford and performance car legend, Carroll Shelby. Its goal was to create competition for the Chevy Corvette.
The Shelby GT500 Mustang was first released in 1967. It was powered by a 428 V8 engine and sported numerous luxury options. It was produced until 1970. A new version of the Shelby GT500, considered to be the most powerful factory-built Ford Mustang in history, will be released in 2006. Shelby Cobra GT500's supercharged 5.4-liter DOHC V-8 produces over 450 horsepower.
The 1967 Mustang sported simulated air-scoops and a larger grill and it was longer and appeared more aggressive. By 1969, the Mustang became bigger and heavier. New Mustangs were nearly four inches longer.
New models introduced in the 1969-1970 model year were the Grande, the Mach 1, the Boss 302 and the Boss 429. The Boss 351 model was introduced in 1971.
In 1974, the Mustang II was released. It was smaller and more fuel efficient than previous models. This was also the first year that a convertible was not sold, and the only year that a V8 engine wasn't available.
In 1976, the Cobra II package, which added a big rear spoiler, a fake hood scoop and blue stripes across white paint to a V8-powered fastback, was made available. It wasn't any faster than similarly powered Mustang II's, but it sure looked cool. The King Cobra, which was very similar to the Cobra II, debuted in 1978. Also in 1978, Ford stopped production on the Mustang II.
In 1982, the Mustang lineup included the GT hatchback, as well as the more luxurious series: L, GL and GLX. Evolving from its humble beginnings in 1982 to the hard-charging street performer of 1993, the third generation Ford Mustang GT has gained respect as one of the most versatile and popular Mustangs of all time. More than 450,000 of these cars were produced between 1982 and 1993.
The fourth generation Mustang was introduced in December 1993 and was way more aerodynamic than its predecessors, while still embodying the same personality and style. The special edition SVT Cobra, made its appearance in 1993; and in 2001, the special "Bullitt" edition Mustang GT coupe was released.
For the 2005 model year, Ford redesigned the Mustang for the first time since 1994. Ford gave its iconic car a retro look with round headlights, chrome details inside and a throaty roar when accelerating, all hearkening back to its mid-'60s roots. Fans have been enthralled. It's 1964 all over again! Except for the price, that is - pricing for a new Ford Mustang starts at around $20,000. Check out all the Mustang images at carposters.us.
Saturday, January 22, 2011
Used Honda - The Latest Integra Type R!
Deep in the Japanese mountains lies a test track that blatantly plagiarises the famed Nurburgring circuit in Germany. This is Honda's playground and they're not afraid of the comparisons. Japanese car makers have always taken the best bits of European cars and improved it themselves, so why not do the same with racing circuits?
The Takasu test track measures 6.2km, offers more than 40 turns, including a dozen blind corners as it climbs and skews through the forest, one bit where all four wheels leave the tarmac if you're quick enough and a number of tricky cambers. If any car that can average 95mph and lap it in close to three minutes it's a bit special. The latest Honda Integra Type R does all of this. Better look out for a used one then.
Why shouldn't you buy new? Well, to put it simply, it's because you can't. Therefore it's time for a word of caution before we all get carried away. The latest Integra is very special indeed, however it's a bit too close in performance terms to the newest Civic Type R we have in the UK. As a result, Honda won't be importing it to our shores. To buy one it'll have to be a used example. This in itself isn't a problem as Honda are renowned for their reliability and build quality. You will however need to go through an importer to get your hands on one direct from Japan - a country that fortunately drives on the correct side of the road like us.
It's worth the hassle though, starting with the styling. The new Integra is a much chunkier model that the one built until 2001. Sleek headlights balanced perfectly with a revised grill give the car a purposeful look. The car sits on larger 17 inch alloy wheels (16 inch on the predecessor) with red Brembo brake callipers peering through the spokes, giving the car a cool look whilst enforcing that it'll stop dead too.
The roof line is actually higher than the old model too, with the car's stylist Hideaki Uchino quoted as saying the overall look is designed with the American market in mind. According to Uchino, previous sporty Hondas have been too "thin" so they've followed the lead of BMW and Audi's latest offerings. Surely not another case of the Japanese taking 'inspiration' from Europe? In this case we'll let Honda off, after all Uchino used to work for Ferrari stylists Pininfarina and helped design the 360 Modena. More than enough to have on your CV I'm sure you'd agree.
Recaro racing seats happily do remain, meaning that you'll remain gripped tightly no matter what corners lie ahead. The 1.8 litre engine has gone - upgraded to a smoother 2 litre i-VTEC. There's also some clever engineering meaning the intake cam timing is continuously variable. What this means in normal words is that emissions are reduced and power goes up. They're a clever lot aren't they?
As a result, power climbs 30bhp to 217bhp and the legendary i-VTEC will rev once more to 8,400rpm. The greatest joy of driving a VTEC still remains - this time at 6,000rpm. Once the counter hits this magical figure, the high-lift cams kicks in and you rampage towards the horizon accompanied by one of life's best soundtracks. A short shift six-speed gearbox makes sure you can get the most from all the revs too.
Honda also claims huge improvements in the structural rigidity of the body shell and when you combine this with stiffened suspension, it gives the new Integra a very different feel. Rear grip is phenomenal, with the car refusing to let go unless you really overdo it, but you'd have to be an idiot to be heading into a corner that fast anyway.
The larger wheels do more than just give the car a facelift, they really help with the handling too. Combining all these factors together, the latest car feels significantly faster (especially through the corners) even though the raw data suggests minimal speed advances - mainly as the car is 72kg heavier overall due to the larger engine.
When you do need to stop, never fear as the brakes, much like the wheels don't just look the part, they play it too. Again Honda talks in technical speak about 300mm vented discs, fade-resistant brake pads and duel cooling ducts. Just concern yourself with the fact that this car stops very quickly and doesn't get tired of doing so.
Finally in case you forgot what car you were in, 'Type R' badges adorn every available space - the seats, steering wheel, aluminum pedals, gear lever and so on. Honda needn't have bothered. Once you've driven the Used Honda Integra Type R, you'll never forget.
Friday, January 21, 2011
Lobster at Home - Part I - Cooking
If you go to a good seafood restaurant these days you can count on shelling out - no pun intended - a substantial amount of money for a boiled or steamed lobster. Order it baked stuffed and you can add even MORE onto the tab. Lobsters cooked at home are such a better deal; why don't more people take advantage of this and prepare and enjoy them at home?
The likely answer is that they are either loathe to "kill" the lobsters or don't know how to break one down after cooking. I will address both of these issues in this two part series and I am sure that when you have finished reading you will be inspired to cook these delectable creatures at home and confident in your ability to get every last tasty nugget out of that shell!
When you are purchasing lobsters first seek out a place that sells lots of lobsters indicating rapid turnover. Check out the tank where you can see your potential dinner mates swimming about. You want a frisky, mobile lobster. Lobsters do not feed in the tanks and when they haven't eaten in a while they get tired and their flesh shrinks inside their shells. The frisky ones are the newest in the tank and are thus the freshest and freshness is paramount for any shellfish. A freshly caught lobster's tail should snap back when you uncurl it, have a hard thick shell and nice long antennae. Don't expect to see bright red lobsters in a tank! They only turn red when they have been cooked. Most lobsters are dark green, black, brown or even white.
Your lobster should be heavy for his size indicating that he is an "honest lobster". When lobsters molt - typically in the summer - they shed their old shells and hide at the bottom of the ocean until their shells harden enough for them to be protected against their "friends" in the ocean. A lobster that has just molted won't have completely grown to fill his shell. This doesn't affect the quality of the meat but simply means that you can't judge the amount of meat inside by looking at it. Have it weighed to get a good idea of your potential yield. Lobsters weighing a pound - the legal minimum - are called "chickens" and lobsters with only one claw are called "culls". Culls can often cost less and are a great deal for when you want lobster meat. A one-pound lobster yields about 2/3 cup lobster meat although if you follow my directions below you are likely to get a bit more than that out of your crustacean. Try to purchase lobsters that are all around the same weight; this will make timing their cooking easier.
When you get your lobsters home, wrap them in wet newspaper. Do NOT put them in a bucket of water! Fresh water is lethal to lobsters. They need to be kept cool and moist since they are gill breathers and are used to the nice cold waters of the ocean. While they should be cooked the day they are bought you can keep them in the fridge overnight one night if they are layered with wet newspaper or, better yet, seaweed from the seafood market (ask for some when you buy your lobsters). Clean out one of those vegetable drawers; they make perfect temporary housing for your lobsters.
When it comes time to cook your lobsters you need to decide if you want to steam or boil them (there are many other preparation methods for these delicious shellfish but for the sake of simplicity I will talk only about steaming and boiling). Some people like steamed lobsters better because they don't want their dinner to be "waterlogged". The way I see it, the animal came out of the water in the first place so I just figure boiling is fine. I have had numerous steamed and boiled lobsters and have not really ever noticed much of a difference in the final results. People also claim that you can't overcook a lobster with steaming but I haven't found that to be true, either. Whichever way you choose, let's talk about something else first.
Many people feel that dropping a lobster into boiling water, or steam - which is actually hotter than boiling water - is cruel. Other people claim that lobsters, from the arthropod family, having extremely simple nervous systems and ganglia as opposed to brains, do not have the capacity for pain. I haven't seen any proof in my many years of eating lobsters that they are suffering upon their toasty demise but I also believe that it is always better to err on the side of humane treatment of any of our animal food sources. Some people believe that stroking a lobster's belly or back will "hypnotize" the lobster, leading to a calm, mindless end. Again, I have seen no proof. If you are vehemently opposed to what comes next, you can stick your lobster in the freezer for a few minutes to "numb" him. Again, no proof. It is up to you to decide what you want to do but if you are adamantly, no holds barred, never-gonna-do-it opposed to cooking a live lobster, A) why are you reading this and B) you can purchase a device that apparently shocks the lobster to death within a few seconds as opposed to the few seconds or so it takes them to die in the boiling water or steam.
If you are boiling your lobster, prepare a large stockpot of water, salt it such that when you stick your finger in there and taste it - BEFORE it boils! - it tastes like seawater (about 2 TBS for every quart of water), and be sure you have a good fitting lid handy. Bring to a rolling boil. Grab your lobster behind the claws and drop him right into the boiling water head first. His tail will kick a couple times; that's a reflex. Add your other lobsters, if you are cooking more than one, as long as there is space enough to get them in there without cramming. Place the lid on top and as soon as the water returns to a boil (peek to check), start timing. You will boil your lobster(s) for 10 minutes for the first pound and an extra three minutes for each additional pound (this is why it was important to get lobsters all weighing around the same amount). Lobsters that are fully cooked will be bright red, an antenna will come off when gently tugged, the flesh will be fully opaque and white, and the internal temperature is 180 F.
If you are steaming your lobster, insert your steaming rack into your pot, fill to the bottom of the rack with your salty water and bring to a rolling boil. Drop your lobsters into the pot as described above - always head first! - and cover the pot. When the water is again boiling, start timing. Steam for 14 minutes for the first pound and three extra minutes for each additional pound.
With steamed lobsters you will likely not have much water inside the shells. Pile them on the plates and serve! For boiled lobsters you can drain the water at the table when you first pull off the claws or tail or you can use your heavy-duty kitchen shears and snip off just the tips of the claws. Hold the lobster upside down over the cooking pot and drain off any water. Pile 'em up and call people to the table!
As far as serving, some people claim drawn butter is the way to go, others swear by clarified butter. In my opinion the best - and only - way to serve lobster is with lots and lots of melted salted butter. Plan on ¼ cup for each person and serve it in small cups so people can dip the whole piece of each delectable morsel all the way into the butter.
Read Part II to learn how to break your lobster down like a pro!
Thursday, January 20, 2011
06 Chevy Silverado Z71 Magnaflow
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=glzqjDTRhbk&hl=en
Wednesday, January 19, 2011
2010 Chevrolet Camaro #a9142964 in Houston Pasadena, TX SOLD
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1Y7iMWhhYZY&hl=en
Tuesday, January 18, 2011
2007 Chevrolet Silverado and added C/K1500 #S6819 in
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TE6OG79uJ5Q&hl=en
Monday, January 17, 2011
2011 BUICK LUCERNE SUPER @ WAYNE WOODRUM BUICK CHEVY GMC CADILLAC
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CtI_xZMb4SA&hl=en
Sunday, January 16, 2011
Winterizing With Ratchet Straps
If you live in a colder climate, chances are each fall you winterize your home in preparation for the long cold winter ahead. There are a great many things a homeowner can do to safeguard hearth and home against the elements and a surprising number of those things involve ratchet straps, so consider buying several sets to tackle these and other winterization projects.
If you like to entertain, you might have several large pieces of patio furniture like a table and chairs, umbrella or lounge chair. These items are too bulky to be stored inside your home, but it isn't a good idea to let the harsh wind and snow batter the fabric. Stack your furniture so as to conserve as much space as possible. Use several old shower curtains or a tarp to create a protective waterproof cover. Select a couple of ratchet straps and secure the tarp or vinyl curtain around the legs of the furniture.
A similar approach can be used on your gas grill. The enticing scent of grilled meat may be lost for a few months, but when May rolls around again you'll be glad you protected the grill from rust and water damage. It only takes a cover (many grill manufacturers produce semi-fitted covers) and a ratchet strap.
A roaring fire can be a toasty way to enjoy Old Man Winter. But you can't start a fire with wet or frozen wood. Dip into your supply of tarps or old shower curtains again after stacking your cords of wood on a level surface within easy access of your home, preferably the door closest to your hearth. By securing a tarp around the woodpile with ratchet straps you can keep your bundles dry and ready for use. It also keeps the floor a little drier because you end up tracking in less snow.
Saturday, January 15, 2011
1931 Ford Rat Rod for sale
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pv1Judot6M8&hl=en
Friday, January 14, 2011
How to Properly Prepare an Igloo Ice Chest
When it comes to using Igloo ice chests it simply isn't a case of just putting a few bags of crushed ice into it. In fact if you really want yours to keep the food or drinks in yours cool throughout a day or a weekend if you take yours camping then it is important that you put in an adequate amount of ice.
Although you may find using bags of ice easier it is important that you put in a block rather than bags even if they do weigh the same. Remember it will take considerably longer for a block of ice to melt than small cubes in the bags would. Certainly this is the method you should be using for cooling your Igloo ice chest if you intend to use it for longer than 48 hours at a time.
Today you can buy blocks of ice but if you want to save money then why not make some yourself. To make blocks of ice to insert in your ice chest you need water and some 1 gallon milk jugs. Just fill the jugs with water not completely to the top (remember water expands as it freezes). Then when ready to cool down your Igloo ice chest take the jugs out of the freezer and place them in the chest. The great thing about making ice blocks in this way is that the jugs holding the ice keeps the water close to it as it melts and slows the whole melting process down.
Another thing one should do when it comes to Igloo ice chests is to pre cool both them and the contents. This will help to bring down the temperature inside down and so ensuring that the melting process is slowed down even further.
Thursday, January 13, 2011
1996 Chevrolet Impala SS--AutoMedia
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CeA22SrPr3Q&hl=en
Wednesday, January 12, 2011
Tuesday, January 11, 2011
2003 CHEVROLET SILVERADO 1500 Fond Du Lac, WI
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CppqSXxDPgg&hl=en
Monday, January 10, 2011
The Best Drill Press For Your Workshop
A drill press can drill holes onto an exact depth. This tool works with pulleys and belts. A motor drives the pulley and belts to spin the quill and chuck. The chuck holds the bit. When the lever is pulled down, the bit will drop onto the wood.
A drill press has two main types: the bench top and the floor model. It comes with motors of ¼ to 1 horsepower with a 5 to 12 speed setting. Mortise-machine-like function is achieved when a spindle sander and pocket hole machine are attached.
Four of the best drill presses that became the best sellers of all time include the:
1. Delta 14-651 Professional Bench Top Mortising Machine ($229-$249)
2. Craftsman Professional 17 in. Drill Press ($479)
3. Jet JBM-5 / 708580 Benchtop Mortiser ($249) and
4. the Cummins Industrial Tools 5 Speed - Bench Top Drill Press ($39.99-$59.99).
Delta 14-651 Professional Bench Mortising Machine
Delta 14-651 1/2-HP Bench Mortising Machine became one of the most honored brands in woodworking tools that offers more precision at ½ horsepower motor. It has a cast iron base (16-3/4-by-13-1/2-inch) and a gas-filled head stabilizer.
Other features include:
o Multi-position hand lever
o A rack-and-pinion system that raises and lowers the head.
o Head column that swings 180 degrees
o Single phase induction motor
o Easy open access to drill chuck
o Adjustable dovetail
o Magnetic starter
o Easy bit and chisel changing
o 3/8 inches capacity chuck and key
o Weight: 77 pounds
o Diameter: 3-3/4 in. (95 mm)
o 2-year warranty
The set includes 1/4, 3/8, 5/16 and 1/2-inch chisels and bit sets; along with a tool and chisel tray, a gas-filled head stabilizer and multi position feed lever.
Craftsman Professional 22901 Drill Press
The Craftsman Professional 22901 is a 17-inch drill press that includes a single-arm quill handle. This enables easy presetting and repetitive drilling operation. It has a state-of-the-art column mounted on laser attachment that delivers pinpoint accuracy.
Other features include:
o Drill bit replacement.
o Battery powered
o 4-7/8 inches of quill stroke capacity power
o 16 spindle
o 3/4 hp 115/230-volt motor
o large cast iron table for expandable work support
o column-mounted laser
o adjustable work lamp
o Push button industrial style switch
o Tool tray and extension table
Jet 708580 JBM-5 1/2 Horsepower Bench Mortiser
The Jet 708580 is an affordable benchtop mortiser which was designed to take up to ½ in. chisel bits. It runs with a ½ horsepower induction motor. This tool weighs 44 pounds, is easily maneuvered and reverses on its base, allowing a long stock mortising. Bits are easily changeable by flipping the steel to open the door on each side. The Jet 708580 allows a carpenter to create good looking tennon joints.
Product Details:
o Made with cast-iron and steel
o 4 3/4-inch head stroke, 1/2-inch chisel capacity
o Quick-setting depth stop
o Four predrilled mounting holes
o Removable safety toggle switch
o Long and multi-position splines
o Includes a mortiser, three bits, chuck key
o 2-year limited warranty
Cummins Industrial Tools 5 Speed - Bench Top Drill Press
The Cummins 5 Speed is important to have in every workshop. It has 5 quick-change speed settings. The tool has a long quill for mortising. Its drilling depth is adjustable, stopping the quill positively. Cummins bench top drill presses have an adjustable table that tilts left and right, for an angled drilling operation.
Technical Details:
o ½ in. drill chuck
o Press height: 22 ½ inches
o Quill travel - 50 millimeter
o Sturdy 11 in. x 7 in. base
o 1/2 Horsepower
o Power: 60 Hz ,120 V, 2.4 amperes
o Table size 6 3/8 in. x 6 3/8 in.
o No load speed 760-3070 rpm
o 3 prong plug
o UL listed
Other known brands of drill presses include the following:
o Wilton
o Fisch Precision Tools
o Tradesman
o Dremel
o Milwaukee
o Grizzly, etc
Featured above the top-selling modern drilling tools. Consider the versatiliy of the tool you are looking to buy.
Friday, January 7, 2011
Don't Damage Your New Truck Bed, Protect With Trunk Mats
If you have just invested a good proportion of your savings to buy a nice new truck, you really want to look after it. While these vehicles are built tough to be used for various utilities and in work environments, they will soon start to lose their attractive sheen if you do not protect them on a daily basis. You want to consider trunk mats to lie in the bed of the rear of the vehicle at your earliest opportunity.
They were originally designed to be used by small business owners or rural residents for their daily business, but these days a truck represents the most popular selling vehicle in the United States. Most people use it for transportation rather than heavy duty, but nevertheless from time to time you will use them for their original purpose. At these times, protect your investment with trunk mats in the appropriate area, stopping damage or unsightly stains affecting your investment.
Trunk mats are great at preventing permanent damage that could be possibly caused by water stains, rust or oil. Gallons of liquid can be absorbed within these products at any one time and they are definitely easy to install. Also, they can be used around the home for a variety of other purposes.
Trunk mats soak up all kinds of solutions, but this will be no good if the product is allowed to seep through to the underside. As such, you need to look for products that are guaranteed for three years, have a non-penetrable backing and will not chip, tear or crack. It wouldn't be much fun to find damage to your truck bed, would it?
While you should consider these mats for your trucks, just imagine the other areas of your house that could benefit from one of these products. On your back patio, you could protect the deck from spillage, stains and splattering by placing one of these items underneath your barbecue grill. Remember that prevention is better than cleanup.
You can use absorbent trunk mats to stop stains reaching your garage floors well. If your truck tends to leak oil or other solutions, these trunk mats will collect the mess before it causes permanent damage to the concrete area.
Sometimes you need to load heavy items into the back of your truck and it's good to know that trunk mats will not slip or skid when you're trying to maneuver this. By avoiding damage of any kind to your valuable investment, you can protect its depreciation when it comes time to sell.
Trunk mats are made of super absorbent polypropylene and are approximately 1/8 inch thick. They are a neutral charcoal gray in color and will blend with any color scheme quite nicely.
Thursday, January 6, 2011
1992 Diesel Sububan For Sale
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3nerLJoih-Y&hl=en
Wednesday, January 5, 2011
Tuesday, January 4, 2011
Choosing a Full-Size Grille Guard For Your Pickup
Adding style to that truck can be accomplished in any number of different ways. You might choose to install a roll bar on the truck, to put a tonneau cover on it or to install a headache rack. However, one of the best options for adding style, as well as a tremendous amount of protection, is to install a full-size grille guard. You might be more familiar with the term brush guard, or push bar, but these terms all equate to the same basic thing, though individual styles will vary with each manufacturer.
How do you choose the right grille guard for your truck? What type of construction material, methods and finish should be used to create a viable choice? You will need to take care when choosing a grille guard, as the wrong choice can leave you with a product lacking durability and substance.
Choose a Custom Fit
Grille guards are not "one size fits all." In fact, you will need to ensure that you choose a style that fits your particular make and model. You will find that the same guard that fits a Dodge Dakota will not fit a Ford F-150, nor will a guard that fits a Ford Ranger fit a Toyota Tacoma.
This is because the body styles of each make and model are unique. You will need to choose a grille guard that is custom made to fit your particular model. This will ensure that the side hoops will wrap around your headlights and provide adequate protection, as well as ensuring that the central bars line up correctly with the hood and bumper lines. Failure to choose a custom fit solution will result in a subpar experience and might lead to damage to your truck, as well.
Choose the Right Manufacturing Materials
A wide range of manufacturing materials is used in the creation of grille guards. However, you should only opt for stainless steel tubing. The tubes should be TIG welded for the utmost in durability and strength, as well.
Choosing tubular steel (stainless steel with the appropriate finish) ensures that your guard can stand up to the damage and abuse that will occur through use. Any number of things can occur that will necessitate this protection, and choosing a tubular steel construction means that the guard will be there when you need it. Cheaper, inferior construction materials are prone to bending and denting in the face of damage, which can actually lead to additional damage to your vehicle, if the guard makes contact with the body.
Mounting Location and Method
In order to ensure that your grille guard mounts correctly and provides the utmost in protection, you will need to check into the mounting location and method used. A quality guard will mount directly to the frame of your truck. This helps to minimize vibrations, while still ensuring a solid mount.
You should also ensure that the mounting brackets, bolts, nuts and washers are constructed of stainless steel. Stainless steel hardware will stand the test of time and abuse much more than will cheaper options on the market, such as carbon steel.
Guard Finish
What type of finish does your grille guard have? You will find several different types. The best option is a powder-coated finish, which ensures long lasting durability and great looks. However, chromed finishes over stainless steel tubes can also be a great solution. That said, you should ensure that the finish (powder coated or chromed) comes with a lifetime warranty. If it does not have a lifetime warranty from the manufacturer, it's best to avoid it.
Monday, January 3, 2011
getting on my 2.2L
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZC9giXoqkrM&hl=en
Sunday, January 2, 2011
EMRO'S CHEVY THANg (84 CAPRICE COUPE)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aaaU1GsNG3o&hl=en
Saturday, January 1, 2011
1998 Chevrolet Tahoe LT 5.7L V8 Vortec
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eD-xUQVZl0U&hl=en