Tuesday, August 31, 2010

Everything You Need to Know About a Free Standing Awning

An awning is great for use in large outdoor areas to provide weather and sun protection, in addition to giving you more livable space in your backyard. But its purpose does not limit itself to residential properties. In fact, you can use it as extensions to restaurants, facilities, and open markets as well.

Because the covering for this type of awning is a bit tilted, you can get more shade- perfect for coffee shops and sidewalk restaurants. With this feature, you no longer have to worry about where the sun is at a given time- you get all the shade you need regardless of what time of day it is. And you can also easily retract it in as quickly as 30 seconds, and put it in a convenient area just like other types of awnings if you wish to. Basically, when the weather is cool and there is no rain, you can simply retract it to allow customers to have a great view of the sky above.

This type of awning is built with an aluminum frame and durable fabric that makes it very sturdy and hard-wearing. As compared to regular ones, the free standing type is more of a hybrid version that offers ease of use and better coverage. Also known as unattached awnings, free standing ones do not need to be situated in a particular area all the time. You can move it any time and in any area you want.

Difference between Canopies and Free Standing Awnings

If you are wondering whether canopies and free standing awnings are the same, the answer is no. They are similar in function, which is to provide shade, but they have certain differences in terms of structure and usage, as indicated below:

1. A canopy has four legs while a free standing awning only has two.
2. A canopy is used to put tables and furniture under its shade while a free standing awning works as an extended shade hung over an area.
3. Although they can be heavier and a bit complicated to set up, these recreational tools provide plenty of benefits to residential and commercial owners alike.

Should You Buy One?

If you are thinking about getting a free standing awning, you need to ask yourself first for what purpose and where you intend to use it. It is a practical choice for decks, yards, and outdoor extensions. It is movable, which means you can transfer it from one place to another. Plus, it is quite durable considering the materials it is made of.

Before you start browsing the Internet for websites selling these, you need to consider first what type of base you would need for your free standing awning. There are two types: ground insert base and a deck mount base. The ground insert type would need cement to put it firmly and steadily in the ground, while the deck mount type requires bolts, preferably stainless steel, to lock it in place.

Monday, August 30, 2010

Head In The Clouds And Feet On The Ground: Top 10 Convertibles

There are many reasons to fall in love with the lure of an open air car. Whether it is the visceral connection to nature, the natural feel of wind in your hair, or the energizing wide open night sky - there's something enthralling about driving a car with the roof down. We have compiled a list of 10 hot convertibles. Nothing puts more sizzle in your step and a large smile on your face than driving in a sexy open car and breathing in the air.

Mercedes-Benz SL Class

It is very common for German engineers to put their passion into technology. As such, the 2007 SL is no exception. The great-great-great-grandchild of the iconic 300SL Gullwing, from 1954, contains many pioneering innovations, but most of all brings back the myocardial good looks lost during the bloated Elvis period of the mid-1990s.

Of the many attributes of the 2007 SL, the most overlooked feature is the acrobatic disappearance of its metallic roof. Like an illuminated water fountain outside a Vegas casino, this modern museum on wheels opens its roof in a dazzling display of wizardry in just 16 seconds.

MSRP for the 2007 SL ranges from $94,800 to $186,000 for the AMG. Other cars in this price range include the BMW 6 Series convertible, the new Jaguar XK convertible, Porsche 911 Turbo convertible, and the Aston Martin V8. Fuel economy averages around 16/24 mpg for the 2007 SL, but fluctuates on how hard you drive.

The graceful, proportioned lines of the 2007 SL come close to capturing the worthy heritage of the original 300 SL Gullwing.

Porsche Boxster

It's perfectly natural for your wife or girlfriend to get jealous of the other girl - the 2007 Porsche Boxster. A modern day reinvention of the 60's Porsche 356B, the second generation Boxster takes a popular icon and makes it better. Both the 2.7-liter at 245 horsepower and the 3.4-liter Boxster S at 295 horsepower were completely reborn in 2005. Additionally, the new rivets make the car much, much tighter. It really feels like you can take 90 degree turns without worry.

But the real reason Porsche enthusiasts continue to buy the Boxster, and why BMW drivers readily convert is not the 0-60 times, not even the badge appeal, but the outer-worldly handling of the mid-engine car. The Boxster is quick, of course reaching the highway limit in 5.8 sec (in the 2.7); and 5.2 sec for the S. But the real joy is maneuvering the car on a congestion free, curvy road.

Initially criticized as an entry level Porsche, the Boxster has grown up. It now shares much in common with the higher priced 911. Seats, steering wheel, and instrument panels are the same. But unlike the 911, the Boxster is considerably lighter at 2,877 lbs. (for the 2.7-liter), and 2,987 lbs (for the S). With the engine right behind your ears, you also hear the melodic howl of the water-cooled engine better than in the 911.

MSRP for the 2007 Boxster ranges from $45,600 to $55,500 with a respectable 20/29 mpg. Porsche is currently developing a dual-sequential gearbox so future Automatic Tiptronic transmissions will have even more precise shifts. Additionally, a Hybrid version for the Cayenne is in the works. It is easy to see why people expect good things from Porsche.

BMW M3

If you want to be kissed, you've got to be kissable too. Beauty is certainly in the eye of the beholder, but it's hard to look at the 2007 BMW M3 and not smile. This charming, 400 horsepower, convertible beauty, mixes beauty and brains with DSG (dual-sequential gearbox) providing the ultimate escape from the stress of living. For 2007, the M3 has been given an entire facelift. The lines are sharper, the nose grill wider, and the chin more muscular. This is not a soft, pretty car out for a milkshake at night. The 2007 M3 embodies the softening of Chris Bangle's school of design, and unlike the controversial BMW 5 Series, looks as a BMW should.

The car is scheduled for sale in spring of 2007, and should be pre-sold for the first six months. Scorching performance, a fabulous body, and detailed cabin work are all part of the $56,400 - $67,000 price point. The 2007 BMW M3 is the very embodiment of what the Bayerische Motoren Werke AG tag line stands for.

BMW 6 Series

If you sold your soul to Satan for unlimited riches, the BMW 6 Series convertible rocket ship would surely be one of the cars on your wish list before the deed was up. The base 6 Series features the 4.8-liter 32 valve Double VANOS equipped engine that churns out 360 horsepower. If that wasn't enough, there is an earth burning 5.0-liter V-10 upgrade available with 500 horsepower. Released from the gates of hell in 2006, the car received mixed reviews because the Chris Bangle lines were not mutually admired by all. Loyalists preferred the more classic lines from the previous version, and the new money brand converts prefer the bashful look of the new version. Thrill seekers can choose from a six-speed manual, SMG or automatic shifters. Make sure to ink the deal which includes protection from traffic cops and speeding tickets. MSRP is estimated at $73,295 to $106,195 and fuel efficiency of around 17/25 mpg.

While the car offers a lot of torque, thrills and fun in the sun other cars in this price range include the Maserati Spyder, Mercedes-Benz CLK Class, and the Porsche 911 Cabriolet. Maybe the gates of heaven aren't that green after all?

Mercedes-Benz SLK Class

Fabelhaft is the German word for fabulous; an exclamation point that goes well with the second generation 2007 Mercedes-Benz SLK Class. Although the 2007 SLK is in its third year of production, it still looks as fresh as ever. Pictures, however, don't do it justice. It really is one of those fabulous creations of extraordinary sheet metal design that requires closer inspection. The SLK is an understated car, with some brilliant cuts. The bulbous nose has an integrated hood ornament to appease the anti-branding design pundits who want to position the vehicle to a younger demographic. This is definitely a car for extroverts. The car is also styled to resemble the more expensive SLR McLaren.

The only flaw of the SLK is that it is not as lithe as a sports car should be. Weighing in at 3,210 lbs. means a quick list of options makes the car even heavier, and justifies the need for a heavier engine with more horses. In addition, the folding roof does compromise the storage capacity in the trunk. MSRP of the SLK ranges from $43,350 to $62,500 and averages 18/27 mpg for both the 280 and 350, and 16/22 mpg in the SLK 55.

Chevrolet Corvette

The raspy growl of the Corvette will make you believe there is a full moon rising every time you dial it up past 3,500 RPM. There is something visceral about the 2007 Corvette. Historically, the Corvette has always been known for its sound. For example, during the filming of the 1967 film "The Graduate," where Dustin Hoffman runs out of gas in an Alfa Romeo Spyder, the sound of the Alfa was dubbed with that of a throaty 1967 Vette. Driving today's more refined interpretation of the modern corvette, you still hear the incredible sound of the engine whether it's the standard 6.0-liter V8 400 horsepower engine, or the 505 horsepower in the range topping Z06 LZ2. GM engineers claim the Z06 is the fastest car they have ever produced, and tests prove this car does 0-60 in well under 4 seconds! That's faster than it took you to read this sentence.

Introduced in 2006, the new Corvette silhouette echoes a more Roman look than vintage Vettes of the past. For 2007 the car is available in 7 trims and includes a hot new metallic orange paint as option. With a MSRP of $44,995 for the LT1 to $69,950 for the Z06, this is probably the least expensive 505 horsepower car on the planet! Estimated fuel economy averages 16/26 mpg.

Other cars in the 500 horsepower club include the distinguished BMW M5, Ferrari 599, and the Mercedes-Benz SLR.

Nissan 350Z

If you are a proud parent of the 2006 Nissan 350Z, there's a good probability you're giving the car some exercise every weekend on a dry, safe, curvy tarmac near you. The 2006 Nissan 350Z captures the uncompromised feel of a tight suspension, and impressive performance from the 300 horsepower, 3.5-liter V6 engine found under its hood. The only drawback is the car's weight. The base version 350Z weighs 3,340 lbs and the roadster is even heavier due to reinforced steel on the sides. MSRP of $27,900 - $42,000 offers value in its class, but there is ample competition from the new Audi TT roadster, the Porsche Boxster, and the BMW Z4.

The 2007 350Z, scheduled for sale in January, will feature a new VQ35HR performance engine with better fuel efficiency than before. It presently averages 19/25mpg. The 2007 model also promises advanced safety features, a lighter convertible top retracting mechanism, a completely new cabin and a variety of new colors. Something that'll make the loyalist 350Z enthusiasts proud!

Dodge Viper

Like hard core metal, the 2007 Dodge Viper revitalizes parts other cars cannot reach. A glorified rock star, with three hit singles, the Viper rolls down the boulevard with people screaming in awe: "Oh my Gawwd, it is a VIPPPERR!" The first three gears are all you really need to drive the 2007 Viper in most situations. In our test drive, we encountered many people who wanted us to drive the car hard and shake things up. It certainly is easy to reach the upper threshold of the speed limit within seconds due to the 8.3-liter pushrod V-10 that now has 510 horsepower, but it may not always be necessary. Step on the accelerator, the massive amount of torque pushes you in the back of your seat every time.

For 2007, the car features a new suspension with new lightweight aluminum upper and lower control arms, the engine has been made lighter with magnesium parts, and the inside cabin is completely revitalized covered with leather/chrome accents. With a MSRP ranging from $82,785 to $83,995, the adrenaline junkies will certainly get their fix with the new Viper.

BMW Z4

Extreme machines make you feel disinclined to listen to the radio when driving the car. That's because the car gives you so much feedback, from the steering wheel, the shifter to the muffler, that you fear turning the knob. In order to get most out of the 2007 BMW Z4, you really do need to keep your eyes on the road and foot on the accelerator.

Introduced as a late 2006 model, the 2007 BMW Z4 captures the spirit of the outgoing M3 by giving you the option of transplanting its 330 horsepower engine into this lightweight vehicle. Unlike many cars in its price range, the 2007 BMW Z4 is neither slow, nor extravagantly priced.

With a MSRP of $36,795 to $51,795, you have three engine choices: the 3.0-liter inline six with 215 horsepower, the 3.0-liter inline six with 255 horsepower, and the 3.2-liter inline six with 330 horsepower. On average, the 2007 BMW Z4 achieves 20/30 mpg. Looking at the spirited lines of the 2007 Z4, it is easy to see how BMW keeps alive the ideals of Karl Rapp, by continuously reinventing the wheel and achieving the impossible.

Pontiac Solstice

Do you believe in the power of hypnosis? The distinct curves of the 2007 Solstice recapture the time when open top cars were hand built. Those historic cars were not as good at handling or as fuel efficient as this new model. The 2007 Solstice achieves 20/28 mpg from the 177 horsepower engine (a turbo-charged 260 horsepower engine is also available in 2007.).

The curvy shape is reminiscent of the 1967 Ferrari Dino with supple curves and lithe lines. The body and chassis rails are made from hydro-formed steel, a process that allows for more robust shapes that are impossible to achieve using traditional stamping. The resulting shape appears to lack straight lines. The sensual, curvy look highlights Solstice's curb appeal. The car we test drove was red in color, further accentuating the Italian, sporty feel. We're proud GM had the guts to make this car, and to price it adequately.

Driving the new Solstice, you will experience rubber-necking you'd expect from a more expensive Italian roadster. Additionally, the car's precise steering, strong brakes, supple ride, and a superb exhaust note make it all the more palatable in the $20,995-$25,996 price range than both the Mazda Miata, and the Honda S2000. Bob Lutz's experiment, the 2007 Solstice, is not perfect; but as a pure, satisfying roadster, it certainly is seductive.

Sunday, August 29, 2010

Storage Units - Creating Efficiency at Home

Everybody has come to the point of simply having too many things in the home. The garage is filled, the outdoor shed is overflowing and the Christmas decorations need to go somewhere. Does that sound familiar? Not to worry, a local storage unit rental may be a solution.

Storage units can be used to store just about anything. Purchasing new furniture can be a hassle if there is already existing furniture that holds value in place. A storage facility can help. Holiday decorations always seem to have been neatly stored before the holidays, yet after the holidays there is never any space to put them back into. Having a special place to keep them can help. Buying a new car can be a blessing. but not when the garage already has one car and the space for the second is filled with boxes of old clothes and photo albums. A storage rental place is an option.

Storage units typically come in various sizes from 4x4x5 to 10x20x11, and can often be found locally in the area. They are typically rented and require little more than a first month's rent to get started. Afterwards, the process of moving personal belongings into it can begin. They assist with seasonal purposes, as well such as for unused pool equipment or garden equipment during the winter months, which may require space that is no longer available in the garage or in the shed. During the winter months it may also be a good idea to store items such as grills or lawn chairs in a away from the residence as well for both protection from the harsh winter weather and to conserve space.

Packing a storage facility can be a difficult task if a large number of items need to occupy a small sized unit. Some of the best tips for getting the most out of its space are to always place larger furniture items towards the back of the unit. Place items such as sofas or chairs on the bottom and stack additional chairs on top. If the items are glass, sensitive wood or other breakable items, such as computer or television screens, consider using old comforters or blankets and sheets to wrap them up for protection.

Remember not to place anything perishable in a storage unit, or anything that requires a specific temperature unless the unit is climate-controlled. When packing a storage unit it is best to leave a small space open in the center and fill the spaces around the outer edges from front to back and from the ground up with fragile items carefully protected at ground level.

Saturday, August 28, 2010

*SOLD* 1940 Ford Coupe

Wow, this is one gorgeous 1940 Ford Coupe! The silver paint really shines. The car has a 327 cid small block Chevy engine with a 350 Turbo automatic transmission. Ford 8 inch rear end with 3:50 gears. Features include AM/FM/CD player, cloth interior, A/C, tilt wheel, and aluminum/alloy wheels. Chassis Engineering rear leaf spring kit, Edelbrock shocks, Fatman Mustang II front end with rack and pinion, gas shocks, and 11" brakes. Walker radiator with cooling components, electric fan with shroud. New Edelbrock carburetor and intake with Caddy air cleaner, and new electronic distributor. Vintage Air with polished compressor. New silver paint, grille, and polished stainless front bumper and brackets. Boyd Coddington five spoke wheels (17 x 7 in the front and 17 x 9 in the back), and Kuhmo tires. Billit Banjo steering wheel with GM column and Billit accessories. Lokar parking brake, Optima battery, VDO gauges in Billit insert, and dual exhaust. Call us at 618-271-3000 for more information on how to take this beautiful 1940 streetrod home today!



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WejJBYRxVec&hl=en

Friday, August 27, 2010

Overview of the 2011 Toyota Sienna

The 2011 Sienna has been completely redesigned this year but is still similar in size to the previous year's body style and can seat seven or eight passengers. An AWD model is still available but Toyota has introduced a few new changes. A new 4 cylinder engine, available recliner seating for the second row, split screen monitor for the rear entertainment system and a six speed automatic transmission. There are five trim levels available, the LE and XLE come in seven and eight passenger configurations while the Base and Limited are seven passenger only. The SE is eight passenger only. Below is an overview of all the trim levels.

Base Model - Includes dual sliding rear doors with power down windows, full power features, 17 inch alloy wheels, telescoping steering wheel, cruise control, four speaker CD/MP3 stereo system with an auxiliary audio jack, and triple zone A/C. The new engine is a 2.7 liter inline four cylinder that produces 187hp and 186 pound feet of torque. According to their online auto brochure the mileage is rated at 19mpg city and 26mpg highway. Standard safety features include stability control, windshield de-icer, ABS disc brakes, traction control, front seat side air bags, driver knee air bag, and full length side curtain airbags.

LE 4 Cylinder - Adds heated side mirrors, steering wheel audio controls, a 3.5 inch backup monitor, privacy glass, and an 8 way manual drivers seat. All safety features are standard and engine specs are the same.

LE V6 - Adds power sliding side doors, auto dimming rear view mirror, roof rack, second and third row sun shades, bluetooth, six speaker audio system, satellite radio, USB port, IPod jack, and front seat power lumbar support. The engine is a 3.5 liter V6 that produces 265 horsepower. The mileage for the front wheel drive is rated at 18mpg city and 24mpg highway while the AWD option is rated at 16mpg city and 22mpg highway. All safety features are standard.

SE - This sporty model adds more aggressive styling with leather wrapped steering wheel, fog lights, larger air intake, lower body skirting, 19 inch alloy wheels, and tinted head and tail lights. The stereo system is the base model stereo with six speakers. All safety features are standard and the engine specs are the same as the LE V6. Not available in AWD.

XLE - This trim level adds a power lift gate, sunroof, triple zone climate control, metallic gray grill insert, tow prep package, leather interior, wood grain trim, heated front seats, and a power driver's seat. The AWD version comes with second row lounge type seats with foot rests. Front and rear park assist is optional on this model. All safety features are standard and the engine specs are the same.

Limited - This top of the line plush model features power folding side mirrors, dual sunroofs, 18 inch alloy wheels, two tone leather interior, leather and wood steering wheel, satin chrome grille, keyless ignition, 10 speaker JBL surround sound stereo system, keyless entry, second row lounge seats, power folding third row seat, front and rear park assist, and driver seat memory settings. Available in AWD, all safety features are standard and the V6 engine specs are the same.

Notable available options are adaptive cruise control, rear DVD player, xenon headlights, navigation system with back up camera, and rain sensing wipers.

Thursday, August 26, 2010

WW2 Winterization - Hood and Grille Blankets For the Willys MB and Ford GPW

Just about like any war, weather was a factor in World War Two.  Tests were done with the jeep using cold weather gear.  The tests took place during winter along the ALCAN (Alaska - Canada) Highway.  Out of those tests several kits were produced for use in locations with extreme cold weather. The Winterization Field Kit included in part:


Blanket, brush guard, assembly
Blanket, hood, assembly
Blanket, under fender, left, assembly
Blanket, under fender, right, assembly
Blanket, under motor, assembly
Various spring clips
Fasteners to attached the covers to the jeep
Drawings showing the installation of the radiator and brush guard
Installation instructions
Spring, retaining for the under motor blanket etc.

While in Alaska from 1988 to 1991, I was able to put the hood and grille blankets to good use.  The set that I found, someone had sewn them together so that you couldn't open the hood with the covers attached.  Wasn't usually a problem.  Boy, did these covers work well.  During the harsh Alaska winters it was nothing for the temperature to dip below -45F.  With the covers attached and the radiator flap closed the Jeep's engine stayed warm but never too hot.  I also had a heater installed and that kept the inside of the jeep to a tolerable condition.

Later I was able to find a WW2 heater (part WO- A-11839) designed for the Jeep.  This heater mounts over the driver's feet!  Sure keeps your feet nice and warm and is pretty effective even at -45F.  Of course, I was properly dressed with a Air Force issued parka, bunny pants and mukluks (boots).  If the weather is less severe, don't try to drive your jeep with tennis shoes on--your shoes will melt!

Wednesday, August 25, 2010

How to Use Waffle Iron or Maker Correctly

Follow the helpful suggestions below to create best waffles in the snap.

* Before starting cooking food, generally coating the inside of the waffle (grid plate) using nonstick cooking spray or wipe using a paper towel gently covered with oil. Be cautious that you do not get a build-up of oil within the grid plate as this can give an off flavour for your waffles.

* When the waffle is hot, you're ready to insert the batter. While doing so, don't fill up the whole grid plate with batter as there won't be any place for expansion and batter will overflow the edges of the waffle maker.

* Each waffle iron includes a indication to show you once the waffle is finished. In most cases, however, a waffle is complete as soon as steam no more goes out in the waffle iron and also the waffle is gently browned and crispy.

* Don't dispose remaining waffles -- just save all of them for the easy breakfast, dinner, or dessert. Allow them to cool totally and next cover in plastic material wrap and freeze them. To serve them, take the frozen waffles to the toaster.

* Lastly, make sure that the waffle iron is thoroughly clean before storing it. For straightforward and fast clean-up, unplug the waffle maker whilst it remains warm. Slightly dampen various paper towels, put them on the grill plate, and shut the waffle iron. When the steam ends, open up the waffle iron and take out the paper towels -- your waffle equipment is glowing clean within just a few seconds.

A stand mixer needs to be a staple appliance in every kitchen area.

Monday, August 23, 2010

What Should We Burn in Our Chiminea?

This is one of the most common questions new chiminea owners will ask. There are several types of woods that will work well with your chiminea but there are a few most to ensure a healthy chiminea in the long run.

Chimineas are typically smaller than a traditional log fire therefore you will have to buy already cut logs suitable in size or cut them to the correct size yourself.

A good sized chiminea log will be approximate 4 inch in diameter and 10-15 inches in length, but this will depend on the size of the opening to your chiminea.

Pellets such as them used in Pellet stoves or corn stoves, are not recommended to used, as they tend to burn very hot and leave a lot of ash if they are the standard grade pellets. Another one is pressured treated wood as they emit toxic gases when burnt. Look out for green tinted wood as this is a typical sign of treated wood.

Most Chiminea manufacturers suggest against burning charcoal.

There are several types of wood that many people like to burn:

Red Cedar is popular and has a nice aroma and keeps the mosquitoes away, the drawback is that red cedar wood will pop therefore you will need a spark arrestor on the neck and a screen to cover the mouth.

An excellent cooking wood is Mesquite, so if you have a grill chiminea, but this wood will burn very hot therefore use only a few pieces at a time.

Scrap lumber is a popular fuel for chimineas; drawback is they burn hot and fast but come in nice sizes of 2×4s, 2×6s and can easily split into small manageable sizes.

Avoid Green or wet wood cause it will cause a lot of smoke, which may your neighbours unless you invite them over.

Learn how to Prepare your Chiminea Fire.

Sunday, August 22, 2010

Natural Gas Unit Conversions - Should I Talk to a Specialist?

A specialist can assist with the decision making process of unit conversions of natural gas. This person can inspect your vehicle and determine if the conversion can occur properly. Your existing vehicle might require too much work or it may not even be possible.

When you seek professional advice about your vehicle you can seek tips and tricks to natural gas unit conversions you might not have known before. If you think you can do the work yourself you can still seek advice to easier ways to perform the work. Some specialists can do the conversion for you or they can point you in the direction to a professional who can.

Specialists are good to seek advice from when you are considering unit conversions for natural gas with your vehicle because they can give you a ball park figure how much money it will cost you. This is usually a rough estimate but you can determine if the conversion is affordable for you.

One thing you don't want to do is begin natural gas unit conversions and find that your vehicle cannot be converted. This would be a lot of wasted time and might cost you a lot of money if you have already removed all of the existing fuel system parts.

Any type of conversions with natural gas units should be discussed with a specialist of natural gas and your vehicle type. You might find your vehicle cannot be converted or get a few super simple tips to make the conversion take place more easily without any specific issues.

Saturday, August 21, 2010

El Camino Rear Tonneau Entertainment System Opening

Opening of our Finalized El Camino project for Phoenix Contact. Rear entertainment area includes 32" flat screen, dvd, wii, satellite tv, motorized grill, Speakers, hydraulic lift, linear actuators, this is the ultimate demo vehicle for our client and by far the world greatest tailgater!



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OctT9BjZhcU&hl=en

Friday, August 20, 2010

Chill N Grill 09

Chill N Grill 09 once again latin kuztomz hooked it up dis year! wacth in HD



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WGENa8yyF0w&hl=en

Thursday, August 19, 2010

Billet Grills Bring the Big Picture

We live in an era where technological marvels are what the public so effortlessly becomes enamored with. Have you ever seen the lines at Best Buy on a Saturday afternoon? People love gadgetry and special effects - they always have, always will. But when it comes to automobiles, fancy wiring and aftermarket performance chips can only go so far. Most drivers, if not all, go after looks. And for an image makeover that truly lasts, there is no better place to start than the front. That's where billet grills come in.

Billet grills are only underrated for those whom are unfamiliar with their car's exterior, and just care about getting from "A" to "B." For the less-satisfied drivers out there though, billet grills are an invaluable aftermarket addition that cannot be ignored. And it doesn't take much to realize why.

1) Aesthetics- As with many automotive upgrades, most likely you are going to go after image-conscious choices. Billet grills are often the very first option applied by restyling pros and hobbyists alike. The reason? Pretty simple. The front-end of your ride is what makes its presence known before anything else. When you see a vehicle approaching, what is the first thing that you notice? Even when your ride is parked by the curb, a glistening, triumphant billet grill has a tendency to make a lasting impression.

2) Status- When you purchased your vehicle, you automatically bought in to a certain segment. That essentially means your model will always be compared with others in its "class." Billet grilles have a unique ability to transcend any category. If you want to add a luxurious edge to your exterior that separates your ride from the rest of the clones on the road, a roving billet grill secured to the front will help you make that statement with sportiness, elegance, and conviction. The right billet grille provides versatility, and allows you to stand apart.

3) Protection- It's not all about looks. Aftermarket billet grilles provide a step-up in protection for most models. OEM grills are not normally put in place to stave off the elements that different geographical locations are famous for. Some climates leave your car or truck more vulnerable than others - we all know that. Chances are, your original grill is either shoddy aluminum or medium-quality plastic. They were put there to deflect giant rocks and debris from getting into the inner workings. Some drivers need a little extra. And that "little extra" is most likely found somewhere other than their OEM standardized piece in the front. Truck grills rise in importance almost daily because of this very fact.

All Vehicles = All Styles

Unlike some other aftermarket goodies, billet grills are available for just about every model out there, regardless it it's a car, truck, or SUV. And that is an important thing to take note of, because frequently, many upgrades are offered to cars, but maybe not trucks, and vice/versa. Whatever model you drive, it is a safe bet there is a grille out there for it. The smart money even says that you have options in more than just a few styles. After all, billet grilles don't come in just one design that everyone must sign off on. There is a whole galaxy of choices that can skyrocket your car's exterior dimensions.

Mesh grills are another type of grill that can deliver a stunning reminder of just where you stand. Mesh grills display a prominent meshed design, often featuring stainless steel woven in this fashion. The holes in a mesh grill primarily appear much smaller, showcasing a whole other take on aftermarket elegance. Once polished and fixed to the front, a mesh grill demonstrates a stark contrast in luxurious bravado that the original factory grill just cannot compete with. It is because of this reason why along with billet grills, mesh grills are a highly-sought after objective for even the most novice of custom-hungry drivers.

Materials

Chrome-coated or chrome-plated stainless steel grilles are certainly considered to be of the highest order that most drivers want. Many of the top-tier brands such as Asanti®, E&G Classics®, and T-Rex Billet Grilles® utilize stainless steel as the material of choice. ABS plastic is also frequently employed as well, and can also come slathered in chrome. Virtually every type from truck grills on down the line come complete in any grade or finish.

Installation

Installation for a new billet grill is not the daunting task that you might have preconceived notions about. First and foremost, many times they come as overlays, which fasten right over your original grill. In the event that your new grille is a direct replacement, at the most you may need to do some very light drilling and screwing. While I personally believe anyone can do this, if you were to feel a tad uneasy about it, you can always shoot for professional installation or call on some help from a more mechanically-inclined friend. But definitely do not let what might appear as an involved installation stop you from going after the grille that you feel is right for you!

Billet grills really help you make the most out of your exterior. While there are several mind-blowing modifications you can make, a billet grille is perhaps the most consistently classy choice for the majority of drivers who crave an injection of custom style. They are such a solid investment simply because it is just so hard to go wrong! Of course, you do want to look around a bit, see what is out there, and discover your own perception of automotive fashion-sense. As soon as you have that pegged it's off to the races! Before long, you will hopefully have the gimmering and luxuriously crafted billet grill that delivers on all of your automotive dreams!

Wednesday, August 18, 2010

Soup, Stews, and Stocks, Oh My!

It's tough to know all the right tools that a soup aficionado's kitchen should have. We've pulled together a "must have" list for a well stocked soup kitchen. Now, pulling together a well stocked soup kitchen is a snap!

Stainless Steel Straining Equipment: The perfect soup strainer is used in a variety of ways. You'll need a chinois strainer, which is made of fine woven metal mesh and is designed to remove all solids. You'll need a chinois to create smooth pureed soups or bisques. You'll also need two sturdy strainers for removing solids from your stocks. Making stocks in a pot with a pasta insert makes removing large solids (such as a chicken carcass) safer and less cumbersome. We suggest getting an inexpensive china cap strainer for removing solids from hot liquid when you're not using a large strainer. We found that after you identify strainers of reasonable quality, the key features to look for are ease of use, solid handles, and durable production. When you're handling hot liquid, the perfect strainer will make your work safer and easier, and of course the end result perfect.

Blender: For cream soups and bisques you want the smoothest texture possible. To accomplish this, we highly recommend a good, quality upright blender. Be attentive to selecting a blender that is well made, has good capacity, and has internal raised ridges that guide the contents back down to the blades. When selecting the perfect soup-making blender you'll want strong power, a good capacity blender jar with guiding flutes. You'll pay more for all the electronic options and speed choices - which won't add much, if any, advantage to your soup cooking efforts. We look for power, durability and a 40 to 48 oz. jar capacity.

Immersion Blender : The perfect companion to the food processor, and a required soup maker's tool, is a top quality immersion blender. An immersion blender will make soup thickening, creamed soups, and puree's a snap. Its highly convenient and is less messy to clean up, though the upright blender wins hands down for overall performance. We love the immersion blender because it minimizes messes and reduces the handling of hot soup. We highly recommend an immersion blender with variable speeds, powerful motor, stainless steel blending attachments and, of course, a splash guard.

Dutch Oven Enamel Coated Cast Iron : Some of the most amazing soups you'll ever make will come from your dutch oven. There are two types of dutch ovens we recommend. First, a high quality enamel coated cast iron dutch oven. Le Creuset is wildly popular for justifiable reason. It cooks evenly and hot without scorching your food and the enamel coating allows for an easy clean up. Staub is a less popular brand, but also offers good quality. Your enamel coated cast iron pot is the best conductor of heat available and will allow you to cook on the stove top and in your oven all during the same soup creation, without switching pots. Some chefs prefer the uncoated cast iron dutch oven - they must like extra work, since regular seasoning to keep the cast iron in prime working condition is required.

Dutch Oven Stainless Steel: If you like great results AND want convenience, we suggest a stainless steel, heavy bottom dutch oven. The All-Clad is our favorite. These cook great, in fact we believe they work just as great as the Le Crueset, but allow for easier observation with it's light colored interior. With this dutch oven, clean up is a snap. Frankly, we love the All-Clad look, and the brand is top notch.

Cutlery: Every great soup cook must have, at a minimum, one high quality chef's knife and one excellent paring knife. Most on our team have 3-4 chef knives in their personal kitchens and swear they can't do without any of them. Having 2 quality paring knives should suffice. We prefer two chef knives, Wustoff and Kershaw. These two knives are in the premium tier, but not nearly the most expensive, but just as high of performers. High quality knives will make your soup prep work much easier, safer and enjoyable. We're often asked, "what size of knife should my soup kitchen have?" We agree, the choices can be perplexing, but the answer is not exact. It depends on your hands. The best knife for you, will fit your hand comfortably, allowing for nimble work. If you have smaller hands you may find a 6-inch or 8-inch blade is perfect. If you have larger hands we suggest trying a 10-inch blade, or possibly a 12-inch blade. Consider a knife with a slight curve to the blade, this allows for easier chopping. A great quality knife is designed to "catch an edge" making your cutting safer and easier, and frankly, more enjoyable. If you're going to invest in quality cutlery, we also suggest an electric knife sharpener that controls the sharpening angle (a perfect 20 degrees).

Fresh Ingredients: Fresh. Fresh. Fresh. Nothing can replace the complex and wonderful flavors of fresh vegetables, meats, herbs and spices. Even ingredients such as olive oil offer the best flavor when freshest. Soup aficionados who make the effort to use fresh home made stocks are an inspiration to us all. In general your kitchen should keep a collection of fresh staple ingredients such as onions, celery, and carrots, fresh peppercorns, garlic, and parsley. It may not be possible to keep fresh soup stock handy, so use the best quality packaged stocks possible as a back up.

Food Processor: Some soups and stews require the power of a great food processor. We've heard from many die hard soup aficionados that they enjoy the dicing, chopping, and mincing with their chef knife. However, there are times, that a powerful food processor will cut your prep time and provide all the power work needed. Be sure to select one with reasonable volume capacity and the power to chop anything you'll need. We do not recommend a food processor for creaming your soups, only prepping ingredients. Hot liquid will tend to leak out beneath the blade and the capacity of the processor is typically not sufficient for larger recipes, requiring multiple batches.

Soup Tureen: It would be a shame to create masterpiece soups and neglectfully serve them in ordinary serving bowls or pots. There's an elegance to serving your soup in a high quality soup tureen. Plus a functionality. The lid keeps your soup warm, there's a notch for your ladle, the handles and lid make carrying hot liquid safer, and the tureen's materials are often designed to help hold in heat. One of our Soup and Supply cooks, at one point, had four soup tureens in her personal kitchen. Each offered a different look, allowing her to match the tureen to the soup or occasion. Her choices included an elegant tureen for formal occasions, rustic tureen for hearty/earthy soups, exotic for some her more adventuresome soups, and her favorite, a basic traditional homey tureen that was perfect for a classic soup such as Turkey & Noodles. We're always hunting for new ones to feature, let us know if you find one that's truly unusual.

Soup Bowls: Every passionate soup chef is aware that the bowls need to match the soup, even more so than your soup tureen. Fortunately, there are soup bowls that match every taste and style, and even some so exotic they may only match the soup! We suggest keeping 3-4 soup bowl varieties for your table. You'll want the sets to accommodate a large variety of soup options, so no matter where your soup cooking creativity takes you, your bowls will be ready. We suggest wide saucer bowls, deep stocky bowls for heartier soups and stews, medium size set with a comfortable handle, and a decorative set that can handle the most exotic soup creations. The last thing a soup aficionado should do is put their culinary creation into a plane-jane cereal bowl.

Soup Ladle: Though many soup tureens are sold with matching lids and ladles, we encourage you to want more. There are luscious soup ladles that will rest in your hand like an old friend, giving your soup presentation and serving experience an unmatched finishing quality. There are certainly tried and true traditional ladles that are available at a variety of stores, but over time you'll see their enamel scratch and rust creep in. We are fans of stainless steel for practical cooking, and silver, pewter, ceramic, and other high quality, weighted ladles for serving. Decorative handles, shapes, sizes, a variety of exotic decorative metals and textures make choosing your soup ladles an artistic decision that will offer your table the perfect finishing touch.

Spices: Often, a soup aficionado's desire to tackle a new and exotic recipe may be cut short by the list of rare, hard to find spices that it requires. The true soup chef must clear a shelf in their spice cabinet (freezing infrequently used spices will help lengthen their life) and expand on their spice inventories. The soup kitchen's spice rack should never limit ones ability to tackle a new and exotic recipe.

Stockpot: Your soup kitchen should certainly have the best quality stockpot your budget can accommodate. We suggest a 12-quart stockpot for starting out and adding larger and smaller sizes after you've built up your soup repertoire. You'll find as a general rule of thumb that stockpots above $150/$180 tend to offer the quality that is needed for creating great soups. This price tier is due to the metals used and the quality of manufacturing. Apremium stock pot offers the heavier bottom design that allows for higher heating points for longer periods of time - without burning or scorching your efforts. Thin metal stock pots scorch much faster and are a mess to clean up. Since most of your soup making efforts will include your stockpot, we highly recommend finding the best quality pot you can afford. You should seek a stockpot that has a heavy bottom and is internally lined with non-reactive metals. Copper is the best conductor of heat, though expensive, we've found some other great choices to consider. Our team here boasts proudly of the Viking, All-Clad, Le Creuset and Maviel brands. For those on a little tighter budget, but still seeking good quality, consider the higher end Calphalon options. Good features on a high quality pot should include a heavy bottom, solid lid, strong form-fitting handles and non-corrosive metals. Non-stick coating options are available in these brand lines as well. However, care must be taken to protect the coating, and after 20 or 30 years, that may be hard to do.

Tuesday, August 17, 2010

driving the 72 blazer

1972 Chevy Blazer with rebuilt 400 small block, the350 turbo transmission, and 33X12.5 Yohohama M/T tires. Front hood and grill are from a 1967 chevy pickup.



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZbspMK-yLAk&hl=en

Monday, August 16, 2010

Cobb Front Mount Intercooler Mazdaspeed 3 Review

Cobb, who has began to really make a name for themselves in the Mazdaspeed 3 market, has sent us their new Front Mount Intercooler Kit. Slated for release next week, Cobb has sent us a near production piece of their new intercooler. What's missing from the retail kit? Nothing really, Cobb just had a late minute change to the visual aesthetics of the end tanks, including having their name stamped on them.

Measurements of the core is 24 inches wide by 7.8 inches high by 3.5 inches thick. its a fairly large core but it doesn't affect cooling whatsoever to the radiator. The pipes themselves are powder coated for a nice luster and durability. The kit contains quality stainless t-bolt clamps to secure the connections between the silicone pieces and charge pipes.

They are also giving the end user, the option of adding the Cobb branding to the FMIC core itself. So, how do we proudly brand our piece? We will show you!

Inside the box, Cobb includes a template to spray paint their branding name to the core itself. Some people like branding, others dont. This is a nice option to see considering other FMIC kits out there are already branded before they are sent to you.

First, we lay out the template on top of the core to get an idea for fitament. I also used a light cleaner to remove any residue/oil from the core itself.

After laying it out, you get an idea of where the letters show against the core itself. Remove the blue backing from the template so you can begin to position it and lay it firm with the glue backing so it doesn't move. I made adjustments in order to center it and to place the lettering on the lower part of the core for a better visual. After I was satisfied, I applied a lot of pressure so the vinyl backing sticks to the core well as this prevents any trapped air bubbles.

Now we begin to peel off the top portion of the template. Grab a corner and begin to peel up at a 45 degree angle. You need to pay attention to the little pieces that outline the B letters, the center of the O and of course, the C.

Here is an example of the small pieces that you need to pay attention to while peeling. If it begins to lift, back up a bit, reapply pressure and peel slowly as the template applies itself.

Below you will see the final template applied to the core.

Now you're ready for paint!

Painting the core itself is an easy task. The hard part is done, so let's get busy.

This is optional but I try to use primer whenever possible. I sprayed several light coats on and let them dry between each coat.

After about an hour, I busted out some nice semi gloss enamel. I sprayed one light coat until it was completely dry, than 3 additional medium coats. I also left the template on until the core was completely dry over night.

Installing the Cobb FMIC is really straight forward. They provide detailed instructions, a parts list, tools you will need and some hints and tricks while aligning the pipes during final assembly. Lets take a look at the parts list and tools you will need:

Parts List:

- Charge Piping: - Lower Cold Side (Longest Pipe) - Throttle Body Cold Pipe (Has BPV Flange) - Upper Hot Side (Has Brace) - Lower Hot Side - Intercooler Core - 90 Degree Silicone Joint/Reducer - 2.5" - 2.75" Straight Silicone Reducer ( Used On Tbody ) - (4) 2.5" Inner Diameter Straight Silicone - (2) Intercooler Core To Bumper Brackets - 2 Part Power Steering Line Bracket - 2" (62mm) T-bolt Clamp - (10) 2.5" (72mm) T-bolt Clamps - 2.75" (76mm) T-bolt Clamp - (4) Intercooler to Bracket Bolts - (4) Intercooler to Bracket Washers - (4) Intercooler to Radiator Support Bolts - (3) Power Steering Bracket Bolts - (3) Power Steering Bracket Washers

Tools you will need for assembly:

- Phillips Head Screw Driver - Flat Head Screw Driver - Socket Wrench/Ratchet - 8mm Socket - 10mm Socket - 12mm Socket - 3/16" Allen Wrench - 6" Extension For Ratchet - Ultility Knife - Can of Silicon Spray Lubricant for the Silicone Pieces.

Cobb recommends that if you haven't had your mount recall performed, you should get it done before moving to the FMIC. We also recommend that you have some kind of after market mount like the TRZ Dogbone, Street unit or the likes. This will keep engine movement to a minimum and reduce the chance of the charge pipes rubbing on the drivers side. I suggested to Cobb that several more rubber pads should be included in the kit to over come any rubbing possibilities. Although my car has a stiff mount, I noticed the pipes haven't moved an inch and I really wouldn't be to concerned with it.

Removal:

To remove the bumper, start by removing the 8 phillips head screws ( 6 plastic headed, 2 machine headed )

Locate to the drivers side front bumper and remove the 2 phillips head fasteners that attach the bumper to the fender liner. Remove the liner out of your way to get to the 8mm bolt that attaches the bumper to the fender. Repeat this same step for the passenger side as well. I suggest doing this step first without the use of ramps or floorjacks. Just move the wheel inward for each side and this step will be breeze when removing the actual bolt from the fender well.. Once you have this step completed, I would suggest putting the car on ramps or jackstands.

Now its time to move underneath the car. We will be removing the under tray by locating 11 8mm bolts, 7 10mm bolts and a plastic fastener. Keep track of your bolts and where they go. If you have never removed the entire belly pan before, this could be a troublesome step for you when it comes to reassembly.

Once you have the under tray removed, you will have to disconnect the fog light harnesses attached to the lights themselves. You will also need to cut the plastic black clips that hold some of the wiring in the bumper.

Next you will need to remove the Ambient Air Temp Sensor and the 2 plastic clips that secure the wiring harness to the bumper.

The bumper is now ready to be removed from the car. If you have a helper handy, this will really make this task much easier. Start with laying down a blanket, sheet or anything that will keep the bumper front hitting the ground and causing damage. Start with popping out one side at a time and it will go quickly.

Begin by popping the rear edge retaining clips from the fenders. There's also two tabs ( one on each side behind the front grill ) that secure the bumper to the bumper support beam that need to be LIFTED upwards while pulling the bumper forward.

Core Installation:

The hard part is now done and it's all down hill from here.

Now that you have the bumper out of your way, there are several plastic ducting pieces you need to get out of your way to successfully mount the core. To remove these, you will need to locate the 2 plastic retainers and 3 10mm bolts. The difference between the right and left side is, the right side has only 2 10mm bolts to remove opposed to the left having 3.

Also, you can now remove the factory brackets that hold the power steering cooler lines. There's 2 10mm bolts on both the left and right side that need to be removed.

Now you can relocate these power steering lines using the supplied Cobb brackets with 3 10mm bolts, washers and lock washers.

Loosely install the Cobb power steering relocation bracket around the plastic radiator core support.

Now its tme to bring the power steering line up to the Cobb bracket and loosely install it using the supplied 10mm bolt and washers. Don't forget to keep everything loose until the actual intercooler core is mounted. I would like to suggest not securing the 3/16" bolts all the way. You will understand this better when installing the lower charge pipes. If the IC is secured from both mounting positions, the lower hot charge pipe may bind on you when slipping it into the silicone and you will have to go back and loosen up the 3/16" bolts.

TMIC Removal:

Now we can finally ditch that TMIC on top of the engine. Start by locating the two 10mm bolts that hold the plastic tmic cover to the IC itself. Once the bolts are removed, lift the front of the plastic cover up than back to release it.

Now we need to remove the IC itself. Locate the 3 12mm bolts that hold the IC to the top of the engine. We will need to save one of these 12mm bolt later for securing the hot side charge pipes with the new FMIC kit. The hardest part of this whole operation is removal of the clamps. First, loosen the clamp going to the turbine housing hose, than the clamp that attaches to the hot side inlet of the factory tmic. Now, with a good set of pliers or needle noses, remove the factory clamps holding on the bypass hose (large hose) to the bypass valve and the small vacuum line attached to the top of the BPV. Just squeeze them and force them downward an inch or two. Now loosen the clamps holding the cold side of the Ic discharge hose and the clamp securing the hose to the throttle body. You should now be able to lift the TMIC out of the top engine and set it aside.

Now with the TMIC out of the way, you should be able to get to the hose that attaches to the throttle body and remove it completely. Each car will vary here, but I did have to get to this clamp from underneath the car. Surprisingly, the clamp was loose to boot. Also, it's a good time to remove the large bypass hose going to the factory turbo inlet. Loosen the clamp with the pliers and pull the hose off the inlet. You will need to trim approx 3/4 to 1" of rubber off of this later. Since most of us already have a intake system ( Cobb SRI, Mazdaspeed CAI, CPe CAI, Injen, etc ). I did not have to remove this bypass hose from the turbo inlet as Cobb describes. As long as you have a sharp utility knife, you will be able to trim the end piece that connects to the bypass valve from the front of the car with ease.

Using your utility knife, its time to cut off some of that excess hose from the large bypass hose. Start small with approx 1/2" removal. I prefer to get the final fit piece once I have all the piping in place with the BPV valve installed on the new flange. The amount you need to remove really varies depending on the type of BPV you have installed. With the Forge, 3/4" was perfect. Just be sure to come back to this step and do final trimmings before starting that car, so make a note of it.

Now, we move to mounting the actual Cobb FMIC Core to the radiator support. Locate the 2 supplied brackets and install them on the core using the (4) supplied 3/16" hex bolts.

Loosely install the brackets to the core using the 3/16" hex bolts with the 4 washers. The front of the intercooler should be facing up.

With the loosely mounted bracked affixed to the core, lift the core into place and bolt it to the radiator supprt using the (4) 10mm bolts. Inlcuded is a rubber pad where the power steering lines will rest against the passenger side end tank of the core. This is used to protect those lines from chaffing. Keep in mind that when bolting the core down, that you have enough room for the top of the core and bottom of the bumper beam, be sure its sitting level & parallel with the ac condenser. Once you feel everything is level and out of the way, secure those 10mm bolts to the radiator support first, than hand tighten the 3/16" hex's after the core is secure to the radiator support. Once that is complete, tighten the Cobb power steering bracket that secure the power steering lines as well.

Now that we have the core securely mounted to the front of the car, we can now install the charge pipes. We will start with the COLD side piping. You will need to locate the longest pipe along with the pipe with the BPV flange on it. Remember, that can of Silicon Spray is going to be your friend here.

We will be removing the bypass valve from the factory intercooler by removing the 2 - 10mm bolts. Before reinstall the bypass valve in the intercooler pipe that has the flange welded to it, be sure to chase the threads with the existing 10mm bolts to ensure a smooth set of threads. Once completed, install the bypass valve reusing the factory 10mm bolts with the outlet facing in the same orientation as factory. Make sure that the rubber o-ring in the bottom of the bypass valve is in place and does not get pinched when reinstalling. This is also a good time to consider an aftermarket BPV such as a Forge or TurboSmart. Those using a Synpase shouldn't have any fitament issues with this setup. The flange sits high and is angled.

Now its time place the straight reducer on the throttle body with the large end on the throttle body. Use the 76mm t-bolt clamp on the larger throttle body side and a 72mm on the smaller side. Tighten the 76mm with a 10mm deepsocket in the orientation shown but leave the 72mm loose for now. Pay attention to how you place the 10mm heads for the T-Bolts to gain easy access to them with your socket/ratchet setup.

Now we can slide the intercooler pipe with the bypass valve on it into the silicone coupler and leave it loose.

The longer pipe will connect to the end of the pipe that was just installed using a straight coupler and 2 - 72mm tbolt clamps. The other end will connect to the right side end tank on the intercooler using another straight coupler and 2 more 72mm t-bolt clamps. It is best to slide it into the side of the intercooler core first, then the other end up into the BOV pipe. Install the clamps in the orientation shown but do not tighten any clamps yet until all of the piping is fully installed. Make sure it has as much clearance as possible between all power steering lines, chassis, and engine components. It's also important to leave the FMIC core loose. Don't tighten down the 3/16" hex heads as you will bind up when adding the hot charge pipe to the system.

With one side of piping loosely installed, it is now time to install the HOT piping that routes from the turbo outlet to the left side of the intercooler. It will be oriented in the car roughly as shown below. I do advise you to add the coupler to the end of the hot pipe connecting to the lower piece that comes up from the IC. It will save you much headache later and be sure to add a little white lithium grease to cure your nerve endings here.

Let's get started on the hot side charge piping by taking the 62mm t-bolt clamp and placing it over the small end of the 90 degree silicone reducer. Slide the small end of the 90 degree silicone reducer onto the turbo outlet and leave it loose for now. The fit is pretty snug, so applying a small amount of lubricant to the inside of the silicone may ease installation. This is probably the most frustrating part of the install here. It really is TIGHT and even with lubricant, it was quite difficult. I would recommend to you my ghetto hack to get you through this. Grab a pair of channel locks and adjust them to go as wide as possible. Shove it into the small diameter of the hose before installing and force the channel locks open. You will want to rotate this piece and do this several times to get an even stretch all the way around. Once done, lube it real quick and manhandle it on there. It WILL go using this method.

Almost done!!

Now place a 72mm t-bolt clamp on the large end of the 90 degree silicone reducer and take the pipe with the bracket welded to it and insert one end in the reducer and place the bracket on the stud located on the intake manifold. Re-use the nut that held the stock intercooler in place on the stud. Making sure that the tube is fully inserted into the reducer and that the orientation is correct, you may now fully tighten the 12mm nut, as well as the 72 and 62mm t-bolt clamps. Be sure to really torque this clamp down since it is coming off the turbine housing.

Install the lower left side pipe by using a straight coupler and 2 - 72mm t-bolt clamps on the tube you just installed, and another straight coupler and 2 more 72mm t-bolt clamps on the left side of the intercooler outlet. With all the piping loosely installed, you may now tighten all the related t-bolt clamps. While tightening the clamps you will need to pay very close attention to a few key areas, as rotation of the pipes, and the amount the pipes are inserted into the couplers will drastically affect the overall fitment of the pipes. I found it easier to install the silicone coupler to the end of the top charge pipe first, than dealing with it below the bottom of the car.

There are a couple of areas that it may be possible for the charge piping to contact the shift weight or the frame. The first critical area is between the shift weight on the shift linkage and the intercooler pipe that goes from the throttle body to the right side end tank. Put the car in reverse as this places the shift weight in the closest possible position to the intercooler pipe. By playing with rotation of the pipes and sliding the pipes in and out of the silicone you should be able to get at least 1/2" of clearance between the shift weight and the inter cooler pipe as shown.

The second critical area is between where the front bumper beam mounts to the chassis and the intercooler pipe that runs from the turbo outlet to the left side end tank. With proper pipe orientation you should also be able to get at least 1/2" of clearance in this area. I do recommend to Cobb that they should include a few more of those rubberized pads used for the power steering lines for this. Although I was careful installing these, I did get a few scratches on the pipe and those pads would of helped prevent it.

If you followed the above correctly, your pipes will look like this from the underside...

If you haven't done so already, now would be the time to reconnect the bypass valve hose and vacuum line and all related clamps. Also take time to re-check all your t-bolt clamps to make sure everything is secure. One last thing to check is to spin the fan blades by hand to be sure that nothing is coming in contact with the fan blades.

It is now time to reinstall the factory front bumper. Before you install the bumper there are a couple of slight modifications that need to be performed. The first step is to remove the ambient air temp sensor (AATS) from the inside of the front bumper by removing the phillips head screw that holds the bracket in place.

With the AATS removed you will need to remove the sensor from the bracket by using a pair of needle nose pliers to squeeze the plastic clip. You will now need to remove the plastic clip from the AATS connector as shown by inserting a small flat head screwdriver in between the connector and the clip.

You will now need to remount the AATS in a hole in the left (driver) side frame rail as shown.

Before installing the front bumper Cobb suggests the two plastic areas that used to retain the AATS wires will need to be trimmed with a razor blade or similar cutting device as shown. Personally, I did not have to do this, so you may want to try attaching the bumper before doing this to see if your car needs to the trim.

At this point the front bumper and under belly pan may be reinstalled in the reverse order of removal making sure to reconnect the fog lights.

Double check all connections, nuts, bolts, and screws that you used/touched/installed to make sure everything is tight.

It is now time to test drive. Upon returning from the test drive be sure to recheck all of the critical clearance areas as to be sure none of the piping has shifted from where it was when it was first installed. In our experience we have found some motors move around more than others due to the Mazdaspeed's possibility of soft or broken motor mounts. If you find this to be the case Cobb suggests checking with the dealer to see if you car may be a candidate for the recall Mazda has had on two of the mounts, or invest in some stiffer after market engine mounts. We all know the dealer will probably shit themselves and go blind if you drive in with a front mount, however I think the look on their faces would be priceless. Its a known issue and I would suggest doing this before installing the FMIC. I would also recommend once again, to get yourself a better rear mount. There are many flavors out there to choose from.

I had no known issues on my test drive.. I also had no noise, pipes banging, nothing. It should also be noted that I purposely installed this kit using the Mazdaspeed CAI. Although tight, it does fit without issues. I also recommend doing an ECU reset for 15 minutes by disconnecting the battery.

I have to say, I was VERY impressed with this kit. I was personally waiting for this kit to decide which I was going to purchase. For the price, this can't be beat. I had virtually no boost loss and very little turbo lag. I saw less than.5 amount of boost loss after installing this kit. Boost temperatures plummeted like a jet with no engines. Whether I was sitting idle or WOT, the numbers dropped incredibly quick. I would say, Cobb did their homework pretty damn good and being last to release a FMIC has definitely payed off for them. Not to mention, the customer service you receive behind Cobb and all of their staff. At $999, their competition is going to have a hard time competing with their kits. I had no CEL's on first start with this FMIC installed. I would suggest disconnecting the negative battery terminal for 15 minutes so the computer can learn the new boost curve.

You will need to set aside a good 6 hours to do this correctly. Be sure to go over the install instructions Cobb supplies as well as referencing back to this review. It will help you immensely. I would like to thank both Christian and Josh at Cobb for a job well done and for supplying us this kit.

List of recommendations for Cobb which they have acknowledged: - I would like to see you send a total of 3 of those rubber pads, like what's used on the power steering line. They will really protect the pipe by the bumper support core as well as between the cold and hot charge pipes just south of the BPV pipe. - I did NOT have to cut my plastic tabs holding the AATS to the bumper. It fit without a hitch including the belly pans. Mileage may very per car on this. - You may want to tell people what that big ass looking Cobb decal is! If they don't read my review, they wont know that is for branding the core if they want to. - You may want to add that tightening the 3/16" hex bolts that hold the core into place should really be done last during the completion of the install. The will solve any binding issues with the hot charge pipe at the bottom of the core. - if possible, adding a lip on both sides of the core for the silicone sleeves to adhere to better. - Add to reset the ECU by disconnecting the battery so the car resets the low/high fuel trim values with the new airflow and cooler temps and new boost trims.

In Part 2, which will be discussing the boost air temps compared to the stock TMIC along with engine coolant temps and efficiency of the kit. We will also be removing the ducting that grabs the outside air into the stock tmic scoop. We will also get into some technical overviews of the kit. I will also be making my own air diverters which will guide more air into the FMIC core. So, standby for that real shortly.

Sunday, August 15, 2010

Bazooka Bass Tubes

Looking for car subwoofers? While adding a subwoofer to your car audio system improves your listing experience, there are a lot to consider when buying one because they come in different shapes and types. One of the commonly used subwoofers is the Bazooka bass tubes.

Bazooka bass tubes were designed to give music its fullness and provide full sound experience all the time and in any vehicle. What makes these tubes unique is the use of the tube design to push accurate and strong bass even in large vesicles. You will be impressed with the bazooka tubes because they are different than other box enclosures. These tubes will give you the advantage of high quality sound performance and will easily fit in any car or truck.

The first thing you will notice when you buy one of these bass tubes is the grill. This stylish grill is well constructed to protect your sub from unintentional break. The subwoofer that is included in these tubes is designed specifically to give the maximum sound performance. The tube enclosure that hosts the subwoofer creates a natural and uniform move of the bass energy produced by the sub.

Beside bass response, bass tubes can be installed anywhere and in any vehicle without taking trunk and any valuable space. Easy installation is something that makes the bazooka tubes standout among the competition. You no longer need to deal with the technical issues most car enthusiasts don't like to go through. To get the bazooka tubes installed, all what you have to do is to connect it, ground it, hide it and secure it.

Bazooka tubes come in different types depending on your preference. If you have an external amplifier that you want to use, you can get a subwoofer tube. If you don't have an amplifier, these tubes come with a built in amplifiers (usually called amplified tubes) which can be really handy to get things done faster.
Getting bigger sound has never been easier with these bass tubes that can effectively increase bass response and provide an enjoyable listing experience. If you are looking for an easy way to hook up a subwoofer without paying a lot of it, the bass tubes are the perfect solution.

Saturday, August 14, 2010

Beer Butt Chicken - You Stick The Can Where?

If you've never heard of Beer Butt Chicken, the title of this post probably caught your attention. When you see those three words used together in a sentence, you just gotta read on.

I used to shy away from grilling a whole chicken until I discovered this method. Try it once, and you'll be a beer butt addict. (Is there a support group for that?)

Beer Butt Chicken

1. Buy a whole chicken. A smaller chicken will be easier to work with and keep upright than a larger one, but any size will do. Rub some salt, pepper, garlic, and paprika on the outside and inside of the bird.

2. Slide the beer can inside the chicken's butt. Lubrication is not usually needed. (It's actually the neck of the chicken, but Beer Neck Chicken just doesn't have the same ring to it). The bottom of the can and the two legs will form a sort of tripod that will keep the bird upright on the grill.

3. Get an old baking pan, and add 1/4″ of water. Place the pan on the grill and stand the bird up on the grill. This prevents flare-ups and provides additional moisture. Brush with melted butter. This keeps it moist and gives it that nice brown color.

4. Beer Butt Chicken should be grilled over indirect heat. If using a charcoal grill, slide the coals over to one side and cook the chicken on the side without coals. For gas grills, light only one side of the grill. Cook the chicken on the side not fired up. Keep your grill at a medium heat, and cook the bird slowly.

5. A chicken cooked on a grill with a lid takes about an hour and a half to 2 hours to cook. On an open grill, it will run 3 hours or more to fully cook the chicken. To check for doneness, insert a meat thermometer. The reading will be 180 degrees F (80 degrees C) when done.

Taking the chicken off the grill can be a challenge. Use two large forks and stick on in each breast and lift off or use grilling gloves and grab the bird and move off the grill. Be careful with the can of beer. It will be hot and will burn if sloshed out. Remember: spilling beer is always a sin, even if you're cooking with it.

Let the bird cool for 15 minutes or so before serving. It will fall off the bone and is easiest served in large chunks rather than sliced.

Notes:

If you want to barbeque your bird, wait until the last 15 minutes.

Use other seasonings in the can of beer, inside the chicken cavity or mixed with the butter for different taste options. This is a fun recipe to play around with.

Friday, August 13, 2010

Englon - An All-New Taxi

As we all know, being the capital of England and the United Kingdom, London is the UK's largest and most populous metropolitan area and the largest urban zone in the European Union by most measures. When it came to cars, Aston Martin is owned by a bunch of Middle Eastern businessmen, Lotus by Malaysians, Bentley by some Germans and ol' Rolls Royce by another set of Germans. So basically, we're left with small boutique manufacturers as even the famous London taxis are now victim to globalization and cost.

Geely, China's largest manufacturer of passenger cars is in cahoots with London Taxi International (LTI) who are the manufacturer of the current version of the London taxi the venerable TX series of cabs; the latest being the TX4. According to what I read, Geely and LTI (a small part in the actual picture) intends to produce a new globalized version of the London Taxi so that it can sell a London taxi everywhere around the world. Why they are doing so is also quite confusing as they are already producing their version of the TX4 for use in China.

The Geely TXN will be sold under the 'Englon' brand, which is also the brand that the Chinese TX4 is using. Yes, 'Englon'. This is exactly how a whole lot of people in China pronounce the word 'England'. Apparently, the largest country of the United Kingdom has just been 'modified' by the people of China. Geely is calling the new cab the TXN, and its new design will be made at the same factory in Coventry to be sold worldwide.

While it will have the same round headlights and an upright front grill, the folding seats of the original TX series will disappear from the new taxi. The driver will be surrounded by a Perspex shield with space for one passenger in the front instead of the usual divider which only makes the rear seats usable for carrying passengers.

Geely has stated that the TXN maintains the traditional cab's DNA with its traditional styling, high roof (to fit gentlemen and ladies who wear hats) and the very tight turning circle but adds modern safely features like airbags, ABS and that extra passenger seat upfront. According to Geely, the current TX4, though a symbol of London was outdated and they predicted that customers would prefer the TXN over it.

There are no plans to stop the production of the TX4 and both taxis will be produced side by side. It will be offered to London Taxi operators and soon we may see a lot of them around London right beside the TX4. How long before one or the other is phased out? Usually till one makes so much more profit over the other. That is usually the case isn't it?

- The current TX4 London taxi
Anyway, I think I prefer sitting in a TX4 over this new 'Englon'. Reason being that the TX4 has a larger greenhouse area and it looks more traditional, like what a London taxi should be. Both are diesel, so how refined can either be as it is likely that both will have the customary sound proofing and modern refinements. The TX4 can't be that bad as it was only launched in 2007 and 2007 isn't two hundred years ago in car development terms.

So we now have a London taxi that isn't designed in England, but made in England, is called Englon, and could be driven by an Englishman of Indian descent. Globalization and the incredible Chinese economy is laying claim to London via its black taxis. So whatever British product you wish to buy that is still owned by an actual British person or persons, you'd better go buy them now. There may not be any left within the next few decades.

And if you intend to take a ride in a traditional London taxi, do so as soon as you can as soon, Englon will rule the roads of London. And Englon is as English as you and I.

Thursday, August 12, 2010

2007 GMC Sierra 1500 #71566880 in Houston Pasadena, TX SOLD

www.monumentchevrolet.net SOLD - Ifyou are looking for real value on a great used car, Monument Chevrolet invites you to come in and test drive this 2007 GMC Sierra 1500, stock# 71566880. We are conveniently located near Houston Pasadena, TX and known for our great selection, reliability and quality. Come take a look at this 2007 GMC Sierra 1500 today. Monument Chevrolet 3940 Pasadena Freeway Houston Pasadena TX, 77503 (832) 369-8252 We look forward to serving you! CARFAX ........1-Owner............NO Accident/No Damage Reported To Carfax.................NADA VALUE $23975 .............Take Advantage Of The Monument Savings..................Used Car Rates As Low As 3.99% WAC .......................Used Car Hotline -713-589-5421 9.AM- 9 PM..................Matching Chrome Grill & Bumper..............Fog Lights..............20 Inch Rims........,,,,Hankook Tires..................SLE Model............Duel Climate Control...............Cloth Seats.............Bedliner...............XM Radio.............OnStar...........



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y9xNLQc4hJY&hl=en

Wednesday, August 11, 2010

2001 Ford F-150 Lightning

2001 Ford F150 Lightning with a powerful 5.4 liter supercharged engine that will really get up and run! The Lightning is the original super truck and has now been mimicked by Chevy and Dodge with the 454 SS and the Dodge Ram SRT-10. This Lightning has some upgrades including custom paint, grill, Foose wheels, spray in bed liner, locking gas cap, and Ford hitch cover! This truck will draw a lot of looks and beat most muscle cars off the line! 3 owner truck with 64000 documented miles and a clean CarFax that is priced to move! Please, call 800-231-3616 or 618-271-3000 for additional information.



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PK0xyTSFeYs&hl=en

Tuesday, August 10, 2010

Security System Knocks on Doors in Carlsbad

So much has happened inside the meeting hall of the city council of Carlsbad. Several petitions have been granted after being thoroughly reviewed and deliberated. On top of everything else is the home security systems offered and sold at each door in Carlsbad.

These days, security and protection of homes and properties is among the top concerns of most citizens. This is probably what made the city council of Carlsbad approve a formal request by a security company to perform and execute selling of security systems in every household door in Carlsbad.

Though the petition scarcely passed the interrogation and questioning of the city council members, the result of the meeting still turned out to favor a security company Roswell. The company's request for door to door selling of security and protection system was finally approved.

Another security systems company, APX Solutions has appealed for a request to allow them to solicit sales from eleven in the morning till eight in the evening. This appeal was refused and voted against by three members of the council, namely Richard Graves, Dick Doss and Fred Woody.

The reason why Graves opposed was because he thought that a lot of residents in Carlsbad are employed in industry locations, are working for what seems an endless time and thus do not fancy being disturbed after their work hours. The representative of APX Security, Christopher Burgess, however replied that they will comply with whatever and all of the requirements of the city which would apply for their solicitation request.

Three members of the council may have disagreed but one came to the rescue for APX. Judi Waters, another member of the city of Carlsbad council has announced that the request should be granted and permit APX since it has followed all the defined conditions. Waters said that it was out of consistency that she considered allowing APX to solicit and to fair with everyone else since they have set particular conditions and APX complied most sincerely just to be given permission by the city council. Eventually the motion was also passed in favor of APX by five against three members.

Another approval was granted for an alcohol license. One restaurant, Ray's Grill serving Mexican dishes applied for a license to serve wine and alcohol to their patrons. This grill and food business has its location in the bus depot structure of Miken's Union in South Canal Street.

Other requests regarding high school graduation rates, police and fire departments assistance and even housing loans agreement were subjects discussed during the city council meeting. The budget of the city for the fiscal year was also addressed during the recent meeting. Future and fresh endeavors may somehow indent a painful effect to the budget if not planned correctly.

With the city council considering all that would benefit every resident of the city, even the market for Carlsbad homes for sale and Carlsbad real estate will be profited. All food provisions as well as every home's security and citizen protection.

Monday, August 9, 2010

88 GMC 18" Glasspacks

Please Comment or Rate!! Isn't Just a Slideshow...Theres video at the end of it... 1988 GMC 2500 4X4 w/a 5.7L V8 Throttlebody spacer gives more throttle reponse as well as power Now pretty much straight exhaust since I'm pretty sure that the 18" is at the end of its life.



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bpnVbdJNX3M&hl=en

Sunday, August 8, 2010

Lincoln's Surprising Bustle Back Crossover

Car fans who follow the ever changing automotive industry got an eyeful at this year's auto shows. Making the rounds at shows in Detroit, Chicago, New York, and elsewhere was one of the most striking vehicles presented - the Lincoln MKT crossover concept.

That vehicle, thought by some to be a mock up of future cars to come, looks like it will receive its own time in the spotlight. Thanks to a sneak preview this month at the Pebble Beach Concours d'Elegance Show, Lincoln fans will see the stunning crossover on the road before the end of 2009.

The 2010 Lincoln MKT

Based on the same platform which powers the Ford Flex, the Lincoln MKT will share little else, offering distinct styling that is polar opposite to the look of the boxy Flex. Specifically, many of the styling cues from the MKT are expected to be retained including its split waterfall grill, curvaceous body, and its bustle trunk. The latter touch will remind people of the bustle-back Cadillac Seville of the early 1980s, a unique car with controversial styling.

The reasoning for building the MKT is simple: some people need the carrying capacity (seven passengers) found in a vehicle of this type, the attendant luxury appointments, and they want good gas mileage. For anyone who owns the big Lincoln Navigator SUV, the MKT will offer similar amenities but provide a 50% increase in fuel economy - certainly a compelling reason to bring the MKT to market.

Radical Styling Meets Advanced Engineering

Though Ford is mum as far as interior particulars, the concept MKT did reveal a few things that will likely find its way into the production model: the crossover will ride on huge tires, feature Lincoln's center stack dashboard display, and be powered by a 3.7L V6 EcoBoost engine. This new engine will be the largest engine available for the model, providing V8 power while giving V6 fuel economy.

Lincoln Is On A Roll

Lincoln is on a revival, having hit its low point a few years back as Ford concentrated pouring money into other luxury brands it owned and has since sold including Aston Martin, Jaguar, and Land Rover. With more money available to help out Lincoln, the dull image of this luxury marque is slowly being sharpened first with the MKS sedan released earlier this year and next with the introduction of a crossover like no other.

Saturday, August 7, 2010

Dodge Charger Accessories - Making Your Vehicle Your Own

Whether your Charger is brand new or you have had it for awhile, there are plenty of Dodge Charger accessories available for customization. These days, many people want to stand out, whether it is through a personalized mp3 player skin or a customized computer, everyone wants something unique that makes a strong statement. Tricking out your car is no longer only reserved for serious car enthusiasts. Now, everybody is taking advantage of the ability to make a mark with their vehicles. No matter if you drive a small car or a large SUV. You can create a version much more stylish than the rest of the models out there.

One of the most popular ways to customize your car with Dodge Charger accessories is by changing the grill. This is definitely a noticeable, standout feature on a car that makes a big impact. Rather than just settling for the standard grill that comes with your vehicle, you can choose from a variety of styles. Some of these options include a vertical or mesh chrome grille or a chrome overlay. Other offerings are a chrome billet mesh grille or stainless steel varieties. Two popular stainless steel grills come in a mesh or perimeter framed variation. However, this is just the beginning. There are virtually endless styles to choose from, ranging greatly in levels of uniqueness as well as price.

Grills are not the only option when it comes to Dodge Charger accessories. Although they might be some of the most visible, many people also appreciate the distinct details that make their car their own. To this effect, there are many ways to spice up your vehicle without a huge investment. Also, many of these smaller adjustments can either be done through a self-install or can be done quickly through a qualified professional. Of these choices, some of the more moderate alterations can be installing door handle and mirror covers. Instead of the plain styles that they usually come in, you can amp it up by choosing ones in show-stopping chrome instead.

You can also choose to replace your taillight covers or swap out your factory installed molding trim. Again, these are easy alternations that do not necessarily require a lot of time and money, but still make a big impact. There are a variety of styles and finishes to choose from, the most popular usually being chrome or stainless steel. So whether you want to make small detailed adjustments or customize your entire vehicle, there are plenty of Dodge Charger accessories available to do just that

Friday, August 6, 2010

2007 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 #7G517267 in Houston - SOLD

www.monumentchevrolet.net SOLD - Ifyou are looking for real value on a great used car, Monument Chevrolet invites you to come in and test drive this 2007 Chevrolet Silverado 1500, stock# 7G517267. We are conveniently located near Houston Pasadena, TX and known for our great selection, reliability and quality. Come take a look at this 2007 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 today. Monument Chevrolet 3940 Pasadena Freeway Houston Pasadena TX, 77503 (832) 369-8252 We look forward to serving you! CARFAX 1-OWNER..........NADA VALUE $23975- TAKE ADAVANTAGE OF THE MONUMENT SAVINGS.........USED CAR RATES AS LOW AS 3.99% WAC............ USED CAR HOTLINE 713-589-5421........ 9 AM- 9 PM........SE HABALA ES PANOL........SPORTY 20INCH RIMS.........ONSTAR..........CAPTAIN CHAIRS.............DUAL CLIMATE CONTROL.................CHROME GRILL.....



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xPsZq16txAo&hl=en

Thursday, August 5, 2010

Drawbacks of Hybrids

You probably already know that hybrid cars are more cost-effective, fuel-efficient, and environment-friendly than traditional gas-powered vehicles. So the question is: why isn't everyone driving one? The simple fact is that hybrids have some major drawbacks that we don't always hear about. Here are some of the major ones:

1. Lightweight construction.

While the light weight of hybrids makes them more fuel efficient, it can become problematic in certain situations. For instance, when the car is involved in an accident or storm, it's more likely for a hybrid than a "traditional" vehicle, to spin out of control. Safety should never take a back seat to fuel efficiency!

2. Less acceleration.

Hybrid cars are generally slower than traditional cars, and have less acceleration. This means that it can be more challenging for hybrid cars to keep up the pace with other vehicles, and particularly on the highway. Is this a good or bad thing? While some drivers claim that this gives them more control of their steering, others argue that it can create some dangerous driving situations. So basically you'll need to decide how much acceleration you need.

3. Experimental technology.

While hybrid cars run on new and exciting technology, the performance of such technology hasn't withstood the test of time. So the problem is that researchers haven't encountered potential long-term problems that they could create. This isn't to say that you should definitely avoid buying a hybrid car. But you should be prepared to deal with various problems related to the new technology of hybrids-and then wait patiently for a solution to emerge. Basically, the technology for hybrids is a work in progress. So if you buy one, be ready to play the role of a guinea pig.

4. High voltage.

This high voltage is needed for the vehicle to charge itself and prepare to operate. But if your car were to be involved in an accident, exposed wires could cause a variety of problems, including short circuiting and collateral damage.

5. Higher cost.

While manufacturers of hybrid cars often focus on the money saved through fuel-efficiency, it's important to note that the price tags of the cars themselves tend to be quite steep. This mainly is related to the complex electric motor and battery pack of the vehicle. Another important matter is that few maintenance tools are available for hybrid cars. So if you were to purchase a hybrid, you'd need to spend more money on checkups and maintenance. Sure, this situation could change as more hybrids are produced. But until that happens, expect the cost of the vehicles and their maintenance to be quite steep.

This isn't to say that you shouldn't consider purchasing hybrid cars. As with traditional cars, they have their pros and cons. And within time, many of the drawbacks of hybrid cars will cease being drawbacks. But until that happens, it's crucial to consider both the benefits and drawbacks of driving a hybrid vehicle. The technology for these vehicles is still basically new, so you might decide to wait until hybrids become less rough around the edges.

Wednesday, August 4, 2010

EVELYN - My 1931 Chevrolet Ratrod Tub Part #55 - Grill Insert from the Dumpster

Accidental Dumpster-Diving at Work when throwing out some Trash brought home some new parts for the project.. How can one-man's Trash be another Man's JEWEL? - Well go watch the Video and see! - EVERY PART of what you see forming the Grill of Evelyn was 110% FREE -Enjoy! Rob



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AZQO6pJptIg&hl=en

Tuesday, August 3, 2010

The Trailer Hitch Mounting Adaptor With Endless Possibilities

Finally there is an adaptor that slides right in to your trailer hitch and transforms that normal receiver hitch into a super hitch. Introducing the Hitchet. Hand made in the good old USA the Hitchet works with any standard 2 inch receiver and with standard locking pins.

Tailgating
So how can this truck accessory help you? Well if you're a tailgater you'll be in the shade or out of the rain in just seconds with any standard size patio or beach umbrella. There is also a smaller bracket for golf umbrellas.

You are still able to open and close the tailgate when using a Hitchet on a pickup truck or suv. It works great for ATV, Side by Sides and Golf Carts.

BBQ Grillin
Do you have a hard time finding someplace to set up your BBQ grill? Well not after you get your Hitchet with the BBQ bracket attachment. Now its just a matter of seconds before you're set up and ready to start cookin!

The generic BBQ pit bracket allows you to mount many different types of BBQ pits that are available at The Home Depot, Loews, or your local home improvement store. This bracket is pre-drilled, and comes with the mounting hardware that installs in minutes. Once the bracket has been mounted to your pit, you can handle burgers, dogs and steaks anyplace, anytime. This is the perfect tailgating accessory.

Hunters
For you hunter's there is no longer a need to find the perfect tree with the perfect limbs to be able to dress out your kill. There's a mobile game hoist attachment that comes with a six foot center section and a second Hitchet, with the pull of a pin it disassembles and stores easily. This unit comes complete with winch, cable, pins, it's ready to use as an attachment on your existing Hitchet. The additional Hitchet that comes with this unit could even be used on another vehicle or for the fishing attachment.

Contractors
Life is not all fun and leisure and for those of us that have to work out of our trucks life just got better with a Hitchet. Now you have the means to mount and use different tools easily. Each bracket can be used for multiple applications and you can switch between applications in seconds! Use the Small 8" x 8" steel plate brackets to mount smaller items like a vise. Use the large 16" x 24" steel plate brackets to mount bigger items like a chop saw.

You can drill and bolt or weld attachments to the bracket and they are ready to be used with any standard class 3, 4, or 5 receiver hitch using Hitchet.